Sound proof interior doors
#1
01-02-08, 07:06 AM
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Sound proof interior doors
Hi,
I am looking for a way to reduce noise travel from room to room by installing new doors. I have older, cheap wood panel doors that are hollow in the middle. They do not provide much sound reduction. Wood floors cover 70 percent of the home, and I know that contributes to sound travel, but I'm really hoping there is some type of door out there that can help! I never really noticed the problem till my girlfriend moved in and she's really pushing this; help me solve this!
Thanks!
I am looking for a way to reduce noise travel from room to room by installing new doors. I have older, cheap wood panel doors that are hollow in the middle. They do not provide much sound reduction. Wood floors cover 70 percent of the home, and I know that contributes to sound travel, but I'm really hoping there is some type of door out there that can help! I never really noticed the problem till my girlfriend moved in and she's really pushing this; help me solve this!
Thanks!
#2
01-02-08, 07:31 AM
Aside from installing solid pine or solid core doors, it would be difficult to insulate what you have. Some have thought to drill 1/4" holes and inject foam. Only problem is, although they are hollow, they have corrugation running across them as a stiffener and the foam would not be continuous, so that's out.
#3
01-02-08, 09:33 AM
Since you say you are looking install new doors, solid core is the way to go. There is a brand name of Safe-N-Sound, but they tend to be a bit pricey.
I like to try the easy (and, yes, CHEAP) way first. I'd try going to the local big box store and look in the weather proofing/sealing aisle. See if you can find something that will seal all around (ALL around, as in top, sides AND bottom) the door when closed. If you are only looking to block out nosies in the normal speaking ranges (NOT for full range, i.e. a home theater) this may be enough to solve the problem.
Good luck,
Tom
I like to try the easy (and, yes, CHEAP) way first. I'd try going to the local big box store and look in the weather proofing/sealing aisle. See if you can find something that will seal all around (ALL around, as in top, sides AND bottom) the door when closed. If you are only looking to block out nosies in the normal speaking ranges (NOT for full range, i.e. a home theater) this may be enough to solve the problem.
Good luck,
Tom
#4
01-02-08, 10:13 AM
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Thanks for the follow up, I appreciate it. I will look into solid core doors, I visit the local HD often and I'm sure they have them. I'll talk to them to see if they provide extra noise reduction.
Also, I was going to look into Masonite 6-panel doors. My father has extra unused Masonite doors for me to have. They are hollow inside, but (I'm told) the substrate is thicker than cheap wood panel doors like mine, so that may help.
Also, I was going to look into Masonite 6-panel doors. My father has extra unused Masonite doors for me to have. They are hollow inside, but (I'm told) the substrate is thicker than cheap wood panel doors like mine, so that may help.
#5
01-02-08, 10:28 AM
Super Moderator
doors
Hi Justin
The masonite doors your Dad has, would probably add to the looks, but won't do much for the sound. They might possibly increase the sound transmission due to the way they are constructed, and the fact that the Masonite panels are harder than the flush wood hollow doors you have now.
The safe-n-sound doors are a Masonite product as well. They are constructed the same way as a regular hollow core door, but have a sort of un-compressed masonite core. They are lighter and less likely to warp than a solid wood door. They also have a higher burn-thru time, though they are not specifically "rated" doors, as they don't quite meet the code for that.
If you had to order doors, the cost difference wouldn't be that much, but compared to an off the shelf item, yes they're a little pricey. I'd guess about $90-100 for a solid slab, vs max about $45 for off the shelf. The safe-n-sound adds about $30 to the base cost of the special order doors. Used to only be about $18, but for some reason they went up.
As you can tell, I used to sell these. Every customer I had who bought them was very pleased with the performance. Much more solid feel to them.
Best in 08
The masonite doors your Dad has, would probably add to the looks, but won't do much for the sound. They might possibly increase the sound transmission due to the way they are constructed, and the fact that the Masonite panels are harder than the flush wood hollow doors you have now.
The safe-n-sound doors are a Masonite product as well. They are constructed the same way as a regular hollow core door, but have a sort of un-compressed masonite core. They are lighter and less likely to warp than a solid wood door. They also have a higher burn-thru time, though they are not specifically "rated" doors, as they don't quite meet the code for that.
If you had to order doors, the cost difference wouldn't be that much, but compared to an off the shelf item, yes they're a little pricey. I'd guess about $90-100 for a solid slab, vs max about $45 for off the shelf. The safe-n-sound adds about $30 to the base cost of the special order doors. Used to only be about $18, but for some reason they went up.
As you can tell, I used to sell these. Every customer I had who bought them was very pleased with the performance. Much more solid feel to them.
Best in 08
#6
01-04-08, 12:25 PM
justin1977,
Hollow core doors are a part of the noise problem, but only a relatively small part. Converting them to sold core help help, but only a little. There are many other ways that sound is transmitted through a house. (Walls, ceilings, floors, HVAC ducts, ...
Adding weatherstripping on interior doors is going to create more problems than it solves if you have central heat and air. The air needs to get out of the rooms and back to the return air duct for the system to work properly.
Carpet would do a lot more for noise reduction than doors will. (My house is about 70% hardwood, tile or laminate flooring as well. Only the bedrooms are carpeted.)
Hollow core doors are a part of the noise problem, but only a relatively small part. Converting them to sold core help help, but only a little. There are many other ways that sound is transmitted through a house. (Walls, ceilings, floors, HVAC ducts, ...
Adding weatherstripping on interior doors is going to create more problems than it solves if you have central heat and air. The air needs to get out of the rooms and back to the return air duct for the system to work properly.
Carpet would do a lot more for noise reduction than doors will. (My house is about 70% hardwood, tile or laminate flooring as well. Only the bedrooms are carpeted.)
#7
01-04-08, 01:27 PM
Super Moderator
noise transmission
Good point Lefty
I used to share a condo on the beach with a buddy, our bedrooms were separated by a bathroom and the equipment room(furnace and WH), probably 30 ft away. It was a rough cedar siding interior and exterior, all carpeted, solid wood 6 panel doors. Didn't realize how the sound carried until I had a "guest" for a visit, and my roomate really let me have it the next day, about the inconvenience while he was trying to sleep.
Best in 08!
I used to share a condo on the beach with a buddy, our bedrooms were separated by a bathroom and the equipment room(furnace and WH), probably 30 ft away. It was a rough cedar siding interior and exterior, all carpeted, solid wood 6 panel doors. Didn't realize how the sound carried until I had a "guest" for a visit, and my roomate really let me have it the next day, about the inconvenience while he was trying to sleep.
Best in 08!
