Taking Out A Door
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Taking Out A Door
I am getting estimates from contractors on removing my closet door and just opening the space by about 18" (9" each side) and then reframing but not putting another door on. I want to leave it open (like you would a transition to another room) with molding around it and then install a cute curtain to be able to pull closed when needed. So far I have gotten 1 quote and it was for $3000. Now, I'm not a carpenter or contractor so I don't know, but this sounds like a ridiculous amount of money for such a simple job.
So, that being said, I feel like this is such a simple job that my spouse and I could probably do it if given the right directions. Is that unreasonable to think?
Thanks for any help I can get...
So, that being said, I feel like this is such a simple job that my spouse and I could probably do it if given the right directions. Is that unreasonable to think?
Thanks for any help I can get...
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If it is a supporting wall, that may be right. If not you should call someone else. How to tell: look in the basement or where the support beams are located. if there is a beam directly under the closet wall, it is a supporting wall and needs special attention above the closet opening(much more labor/material). If no supporting beam below, it likely is a simple job to remove some drywall and studs and redo the wall ends for the closet. There is carpet or flooring(carpet is easy, hardwood flooring is more difficult) that will need modification, but probably not $3k worth.
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Thanks
Ok, thanks for the info. I actually live in Texas (no basements) and it's in the middle of the house so I'm guessing that means it's ok to just do it the easy way. I plan on doing the floor myself. I have carpet and plan to that and edge it and then just stain the concrete in the closet for a nice look. Am I making it sound easier than it really is?
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If it is in the middle of the house, the chances are good that it is a supporting wall, and the easy way is out. That is where the center load for the ceiling joists is distributed, unless you have trusses. Better to have someone that knows, check this out.
#5

Just Bill is probably right, but if you look in the attic, you will be able to determine if you have trusses. the rafters and ceiling joists will have what looks like a "W" built in it. if that is the case, then the wall won't be a problem. if it is not trusses, and the door wall is at 90 degrees to the ceiling joists, you still probably will be ok as the center supporting wall will usually be running the length of the house in or near the center. having said all that, i think the est. is too high also.

#6
loytoy26,
You need to know exactly what you're dealing with BEFORE you go cutting into the wall.
Does this wall run parallel to the ceiling joists, or perpendicular to them?
If it's parallel, it's probably not a bearing wall, but it could well be a braced wall. If that's the case, you can be OK with "the easy way", but if you run into let-in bracing, head it off at the new studs accordingly. (You'll need a couple of new studs that the bracing does not get let into.)
If it's perpendicular to the ceiling joists, treat it as a bearing wall. You'll have to temporarily support the ceiling before you start cutting studs, and you'll need a new, and probably larger header than the one that is presently in place.
It's not difficult (just a lot of messy work), and that bid of $3k that you got could well be an indicator of just how involved it's going to be.
Get 2 or 3 other bids and see how they compare before you choose to tackle it yourself.
You need to know exactly what you're dealing with BEFORE you go cutting into the wall.
Does this wall run parallel to the ceiling joists, or perpendicular to them?
If it's parallel, it's probably not a bearing wall, but it could well be a braced wall. If that's the case, you can be OK with "the easy way", but if you run into let-in bracing, head it off at the new studs accordingly. (You'll need a couple of new studs that the bracing does not get let into.)
If it's perpendicular to the ceiling joists, treat it as a bearing wall. You'll have to temporarily support the ceiling before you start cutting studs, and you'll need a new, and probably larger header than the one that is presently in place.
It's not difficult (just a lot of messy work), and that bid of $3k that you got could well be an indicator of just how involved it's going to be.
Get 2 or 3 other bids and see how they compare before you choose to tackle it yourself.