sliding glass door removal - no screws seen

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Old 02-03-08, 12:11 AM
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sliding glass door removal - no screws seen

I am trying to remove my dual pane sliding glass door to replace the rollers. The fixed panel has to be removed first but the problem is, I can not figure out how to remove it.

After removing the track, I see no screws. There are also no screws to be seen anywhere. So I am not sure how to remove the fixed panel. Is there another piece I am suppose to remove?
 
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Old 02-03-08, 05:10 AM
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Do you know the door manufacturer?? Most sliding doors do not require the removal of the fixed section. Some come out simply by adjusting the rollers to minumum travel and lifting the door out(there may also be rollers in the top). Some require that you remove the top molding, which should have screws up from the bottom of the molding.
 
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Old 02-03-08, 06:14 AM
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If it's an aluminum framed door, check for a clip on the side of the jamb that holds the fixed panel in place. Aluminum doors also usually have a threshold piece that you have to remove from the bottom of the opening that prevents the fixed panel from sliding over. The fixed panel is usually sealed in from age and dirt- sometimes with silicone too- and can sometimes take some effort to pry it loose from the jamb.
 
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Old 02-03-08, 06:53 AM
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In reading the OP, why does the fixed panel need to be removed first? If it is on the inside, it is installed in the incorrect track. The sliding panel should be on the inside track, and should remove as stated by the others. Let us know about that situation, as you will need to adjust this before you reinstall the units.
 
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Old 02-03-08, 07:32 AM
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On the lower cost vinyl units we used to sell, the outer fixed panel did have to be removed first. It was held in by interior brackets on the jamb, then you had to break it free of the frame and builtup gunk, remove the sill cover, slide it over , lift and remove. I tried for an while to bring the moveable panel over the inside jamb, but no way it would lift over the lip.

Andersens and Jeld-Wens had the retainer screwed to the upper frame. 6 screws and out.


lower cost normally ='s lesser quality design.
 
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Old 02-03-08, 11:41 AM
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Also, on most of the original aluminum doors that I've seen, the frame of the door and/or the height of the finished floor prevents the operating panel from being lifted up off the rollers and then brought toward the interior. The fixed panel (outer track) must first be removed in order to lift the operating panel off the rail and since it can't tip in, it often needs to be tipped toward the exterior to be removed.
 
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Old 02-04-08, 10:40 PM
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Patio Doors can be quite a challenge at times to take apart especially if it is a brand your not used to seeing. Some have a trim piece on the inside top which keeps your operating panel from tipping in(Andersen, Windstrom,...) and the screws which hold it in place get completely covered in paint making them impossible to see. Some vinyl products you just lower the rollers all the way down, then lift up and tip the bottom in. Some others require the removal of part of the handle and panel stops to slide the operating panel over past the interlock to remove a retaining clip with hidden screws. Some panels I could only get out with a sawzall and removing part of the frame first. I believe some units are not very "service friendly". Good Luck.
 
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Old 05-11-14, 10:40 PM
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If all else fails

If the stationary door will not clear the bottom track, use a car jack to push the upper and lower tracks apart a few millimeters. Cut a piece of lumber to fit the height of the door, minus the height of the retracted jack and wood blocks. Protect the bottom track with a piece of plywood. I had a nasty problem removing a Solaris door, until I did this. I used a bottle (not scissor) jack and 2 X 6 lumber. My lower track is at a slight angle, so I used a shim to level the foot of the jack.
 
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Old 05-12-14, 02:51 AM
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Welcome to the forums. You are responding to a 6 year old thread. Hopefully the OP has their problem solved by now.
 
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