Replace basement windows with steel casing
#1
Replace basement windows with steel casing
Hey all,
My basement has three very leaky (air) aluminum-frame slide windows that I need to replace. The foundation is poured. The problem I think I might encounter is that the current windows are set into heavy-gauge steel frames, which seem to have been installed when the foundation was being poured.
To replace these with double-pane hopper windows, would I need to somehow remove these "casings" or "frames" (not sure what to call them). And if so...how?
I can get the old windows out no problem. They have a quick disconnect and the whole aluminum frame/glass/screen comes out of the steel casing as one unit.
Thanks!
My basement has three very leaky (air) aluminum-frame slide windows that I need to replace. The foundation is poured. The problem I think I might encounter is that the current windows are set into heavy-gauge steel frames, which seem to have been installed when the foundation was being poured.
To replace these with double-pane hopper windows, would I need to somehow remove these "casings" or "frames" (not sure what to call them). And if so...how?
I can get the old windows out no problem. They have a quick disconnect and the whole aluminum frame/glass/screen comes out of the steel casing as one unit.
Thanks!
#2
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I often leave the old frames in place, if they are in good condition. Even better if aluminum. They act as a backer for the new windows, assuming the new ones are properly sized. I caulk around the inside of the old frame, seal the new window against that and screw thru the sides with tapcons into the block/concrete. Seal with DAP foam or a non expanding urethane foam.
#3
I've always taken a different route, always removing the old metal frames from any poured cement or cement/cinder block opening. A little cutting with a reciprocating saw, a little prying with a large crowbar, maybe a little grinding with an angle grinder or sometimes chipping away the loose mortar that has been parged onto a pre-existing opening. I've never met a window that I couldn't tear out.
Although once I came close.
Although once I came close.
#4
Interesting. I guess I'll have to shop around first to see what my replacement options are. If nothing will fit in the existing opening, then I guess the whole steel case has to come out. Not the end of the world...just an unexpected step. Thanks for the info!
#5
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i agree with taking out the old window completely, but don't worry about the steel buck, it stays. most of the time you will need to have a glass shop order you a custom sized window that fits nice and snug into that opening. most likely a standard sized window will leave too big of a gap all the way around, leaving you with more finish work. you will probably have to remove the fin on the new window and slide it into the opening. ask your local glass shop and they can give you even more details but that's the basic idea.
#6
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Explore your option
What is the size of the window? Hopper windows are great in your situation because they usually are made to let in a lot of air per opening size and they give you full screen opening. Is this an escapement (bedroom) window?
You might find that a standard size window will fit in with some trim. In my way of thinking this is the best route. We used to replace windows in my business.
For hopper and awning windows I always preferred wood if you can afford it and if you can find a reasonable fit. Marvin and Anderson windows, for example have a wide range of sizes available and you will be able to replace components or sash if you have any problems. You can go to a window dealer or home center and pick up a Marvin or Anderson window catalog and size things up. Some dealers carry Peachtree windows which are also quite well made.
We used to order custom sized windows. Windows with the fins already removed are often called "block frame". These, however, had custom sizes of glass and were often made by smaller manufacturers who seemed to go out of business periodically. Marvin and Anderson have had staying power.
If you have any chance of fitting a standard window in the opening it will serve you well. Thus, any future window repair or replacement will be much easier and you will get a much nicer window in my opinion. I have never had a customer tell me they wish they had bought a cheaper window.
Jim
You might find that a standard size window will fit in with some trim. In my way of thinking this is the best route. We used to replace windows in my business.
For hopper and awning windows I always preferred wood if you can afford it and if you can find a reasonable fit. Marvin and Anderson windows, for example have a wide range of sizes available and you will be able to replace components or sash if you have any problems. You can go to a window dealer or home center and pick up a Marvin or Anderson window catalog and size things up. Some dealers carry Peachtree windows which are also quite well made.
We used to order custom sized windows. Windows with the fins already removed are often called "block frame". These, however, had custom sizes of glass and were often made by smaller manufacturers who seemed to go out of business periodically. Marvin and Anderson have had staying power.
If you have any chance of fitting a standard window in the opening it will serve you well. Thus, any future window repair or replacement will be much easier and you will get a much nicer window in my opinion. I have never had a customer tell me they wish they had bought a cheaper window.
Jim
#7
Thanks for the info. What are the "fins" of which you speak?
This steel "buck" has what looks like built-in stops. The center portion is raised, allowing the aluminum-framed slider to be mounted. It would be great to have the storm window on the outside of this stop, and the screen on the inside. But, then I'm not sure how I would open the window when needed.
There are 3 of these windows in the basement, but no bedrooms...so they don't have to be egress sized, and I don't have the $ to make that happen anyway! But these leaky aluminum cheapies HAVE to go!
This steel "buck" has what looks like built-in stops. The center portion is raised, allowing the aluminum-framed slider to be mounted. It would be great to have the storm window on the outside of this stop, and the screen on the inside. But, then I'm not sure how I would open the window when needed.
There are 3 of these windows in the basement, but no bedrooms...so they don't have to be egress sized, and I don't have the $ to make that happen anyway! But these leaky aluminum cheapies HAVE to go!