How to remove sash on 1991 Anderson window
#1
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How to remove sash on 1991 Anderson window
My windows are Anderson double-hung and were installed in 1991. The number etched on the glass is CIG-2 3-90.
I have two windows that are broken and need to be replaced. The windows are not tilt-out and I can't figure out how to get the sash out.
Can anyone please let me know how to get these windows out? Also, where do I need to take them to get the glass replaced?
Thanks,
MarkDIY
I have two windows that are broken and need to be replaced. The windows are not tilt-out and I can't figure out how to get the sash out.
Can anyone please let me know how to get these windows out? Also, where do I need to take them to get the glass replaced?
Thanks,
MarkDIY
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The instructions with a new sash will tell you how, but one track comes out(remove screws) and allows you to swing the sash out on one side, then release the balance strings. Don't recall which side it is, but the track is split in the middle. The glass is still under warranty, but requires a new sash. Call Andersen.
#3
Go here for the removal instructions: http://www.andersenwindows.com/servl...&ssbinary=true
Get a price on the sash from an Andersen dealer and also get a price from your local glass shop for replacing the insulating glass unit. Many people think that the glass can't be replaced on Andersen windows but they can.
Get a price on the sash from an Andersen dealer and also get a price from your local glass shop for replacing the insulating glass unit. Many people think that the glass can't be replaced on Andersen windows but they can.
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A couple of tricks that help.
Before unhooking the balances cord from the sashes, I use small spring clamps on the strings where the enter the balance at top. You'll need four. That way they don't ZING up into the balance, possibly breaking the plastic sash cord tab. It also makes it alot easier to reinstall, because it is darn hard to pull them back down when they are all the way up, and grabbing it with pliers could damage the tab.
Make sure you use the vinyl pieces that come with the new sashes, one on top of the sash, one on bottom. Only on the left side(from the inside) They will protect the weatherstrip that is in the side of the sash from getting all chewed up when sliding the new sash back onto the jamb liner. The jambliner has a sharp corner that loves to grab that weatherstrip.
When putting the lower half of the jambliner back in place take extra care. I notch off the sharp corners that slide into the grooves in the wood jamb and spray a little teflon into this area. This makes it easier to slide up to the proper position. If by chance when removing the jambliner piece, you put a big kink in it not to worry. Heat it up with a heat gun(just warm it don't melt it) and it should return to it's normal shape. A hairdryer will work if a heat gun is not available.
It's best to do this when its warmer out, because when vinyl is cold it tends to crack and break and unless you have some extra jambliner material laying around. You will have to wait until you can get some.
Before unhooking the balances cord from the sashes, I use small spring clamps on the strings where the enter the balance at top. You'll need four. That way they don't ZING up into the balance, possibly breaking the plastic sash cord tab. It also makes it alot easier to reinstall, because it is darn hard to pull them back down when they are all the way up, and grabbing it with pliers could damage the tab.
Make sure you use the vinyl pieces that come with the new sashes, one on top of the sash, one on bottom. Only on the left side(from the inside) They will protect the weatherstrip that is in the side of the sash from getting all chewed up when sliding the new sash back onto the jamb liner. The jambliner has a sharp corner that loves to grab that weatherstrip.
When putting the lower half of the jambliner back in place take extra care. I notch off the sharp corners that slide into the grooves in the wood jamb and spray a little teflon into this area. This makes it easier to slide up to the proper position. If by chance when removing the jambliner piece, you put a big kink in it not to worry. Heat it up with a heat gun(just warm it don't melt it) and it should return to it's normal shape. A hairdryer will work if a heat gun is not available.
It's best to do this when its warmer out, because when vinyl is cold it tends to crack and break and unless you have some extra jambliner material laying around. You will have to wait until you can get some.
#6
why do it yourself? that CIG number indicates that they were made in 1990. I believe Andersen's glass warranty is 20 years. Depending on how they ended up broken, you may be able to get the sashes replaced for nothing.