Installing a new basement window. Need Advice
#1
08-17-08, 01:32 PM
Installing a new basement window. Need Advice
I would like to install a basement window in a room that currently has no window in it. I have a few reservations about the project. I won't be doing the concrete cutting myself, but I'd like to do the rest of the work.
After the concrete is cut, I know I will need some pressure treated lumber as a "frame" to attach the window to. My first concern is how to I secure the lumber to the concrete after the hole has been cut?
Second concern is if the whole is cut too large what do I use to fill in the dead space?
Third, what kind of sealants will I need to complete this project?
Fourth, I was told that I need to use a piece of angle iron as a header to help hold up the wall above the cut. Any advice on doing this?
If anyone knows of a step-by-step type tutorial on installing new windows, I'd love to have a link. Although any helps and/or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
After the concrete is cut, I know I will need some pressure treated lumber as a "frame" to attach the window to. My first concern is how to I secure the lumber to the concrete after the hole has been cut?
Second concern is if the whole is cut too large what do I use to fill in the dead space?
Third, what kind of sealants will I need to complete this project?
Fourth, I was told that I need to use a piece of angle iron as a header to help hold up the wall above the cut. Any advice on doing this?
If anyone knows of a step-by-step type tutorial on installing new windows, I'd love to have a link. Although any helps and/or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
#2
08-18-08, 04:25 AM
Depending on the size of the window, the framing above needs extra support. Double vertical 2x4 plate may be adequte. Your PT frame can be screwed with tapcons or shot with power nails, and use the appropriate construction adhesive(Liquid Nails for wood/cement) Whether or not your window has a nailing fin will determine where the PT frame is mounted. The window should be roughly flush with the outside wall, but can be flush with the inside wall for esthetics. Once mounted, there will likely be an air space around the window, fill with DAP foam or a NON-expanding urethane foam.
#3
08-18-08, 08:58 AM
I did a similar project a couple of months ago and more or less followed this article: http://www.rd.com/18117/article18117.html
If you're handy don't be afraid to do the concrete cutting. I used a combination of concrete screws and poly caulk (construction adhesive) to secure the PT wood to the block but it's held in place more by friction than anything else. Since the rough opening is about 3/4 inches larger than the window, you'll have some dead space. I filled with the expanding foam made for windows. For the header I sandwiched two pieces of 2x6 PT wood, one set flush with the outside and one set flush with the inside, for a total of 4 pieces. I toe-screwed those to the joists, used a piece of PT 2x12 wood on the bottom frame and then cut and fit 2x12's for both side frames nice and snug to hold up the header. Make sure to build a good support wall before cutting the block and tent it off well as there will be concrete dust everywhere. Use a hammer drill to make lead holes so that your inside and outside cuts align. After the window was installed in order to give it a finished look I bought some pieces of white manufactured wood. I think it's PVC wood - impervious to water. I trimmed the window with this and put a good deal of construction adhesive on the side before setting in place to help keep out water and hold in place. I also used trim fasteners through the trim making sure to go into the header. Finally I caulked the trim to help keep out the water. It gave the window a nice finished look and should hold up well against water damage. Is your soil sandy or clay? High water table? Gutters over the area? Grading away from the foundation? You're creating a nice big hole through your foundation and providing a drainage path in the form of a window well. Make sure you're keeping water out.
If you're handy don't be afraid to do the concrete cutting. I used a combination of concrete screws and poly caulk (construction adhesive) to secure the PT wood to the block but it's held in place more by friction than anything else. Since the rough opening is about 3/4 inches larger than the window, you'll have some dead space. I filled with the expanding foam made for windows. For the header I sandwiched two pieces of 2x6 PT wood, one set flush with the outside and one set flush with the inside, for a total of 4 pieces. I toe-screwed those to the joists, used a piece of PT 2x12 wood on the bottom frame and then cut and fit 2x12's for both side frames nice and snug to hold up the header. Make sure to build a good support wall before cutting the block and tent it off well as there will be concrete dust everywhere. Use a hammer drill to make lead holes so that your inside and outside cuts align. After the window was installed in order to give it a finished look I bought some pieces of white manufactured wood. I think it's PVC wood - impervious to water. I trimmed the window with this and put a good deal of construction adhesive on the side before setting in place to help keep out water and hold in place. I also used trim fasteners through the trim making sure to go into the header. Finally I caulked the trim to help keep out the water. It gave the window a nice finished look and should hold up well against water damage. Is your soil sandy or clay? High water table? Gutters over the area? Grading away from the foundation? You're creating a nice big hole through your foundation and providing a drainage path in the form of a window well. Make sure you're keeping water out.
