I have some double hung vinyl Anderson windows, just over 10 years old. Not sure if all windows are generally constructed in this fashion, but the bottom sash has a notch along the bottom to hold a weatherstripping tube (it's foam inside with a vinyl type wrap around it) which you seal with silicone. When you close the window, this tube lines up with a slightly elevated tab to form a seal and that's all there is to keep outside air separate from inside air.

There is definitely air leaking from this area. When you put your ear to it, you can hear outside sounds coming from this general area.

One thing I noticed is at the very end of both sides of the window, the notch is cut deeper. The tube is of uniform length. So when you install the tube, it goes in deeper at the edges; perhaps this could be part of the problem? I don't quite understand why they would be designed that way.

When I lock the window, it doesn't appear to offer greater resistance the more I turn it. It's actually quite easy to turn the lock all the way.

Online I found a "paper test" where it instructs you to shut and lock the window on standard 8.5x11 sheet of paper. If you can then pull the paper out with it tearing, there is a leak. My windows fail this test.

For now I have ordered replacement weatherstripping from Anderson and I'm going to reapply it. You can see the exsting tubes have some wear on the edges.

For the longer term what are my options? To truly fix this problem properly, will I need to replace the windows? The past winter, I sealed the windows, which does help with the draft, but it does not keep out the noise. But I hate losing the option of opening the windows (even during the winter; ie letting out shower steam). At this point I can't tell if the leaks are isolated to just the bottom or in other places; I can only confirm leakage at the bottom.

My main complaint is this is my bedroom so sleeping in the cold can be uncomfortable. It's only October in New England, and I'm starting to feel the difference. On colder days, when you walk into this room you can immediately feel a temperate difference compared to other rooms. It almost feels like you're going from inside to outside.

 

If the new parts do not fix the problem, get back with Andersen. They are usually very good at service issues. Surprised they did not send the parts free.

 

Make sure that the sill is not bowed from improper installation causing the weatherstripping not to seal across the entire sill. The ends have a small notch to act as weep holes to drain any water that may get under the sash. There is no window designed that is 100% draft free.

 

Over 10 yrs...too bad, shoulda called last year durn it..then maybe they would have been free.

From your description I'm thinking these are 200 series? Do they tilt with visible locking latches on the sash?

200's are better than most builder grade windows, but not by much unfortunately. Andersen started making them due to demand by larger builders for a cheaper product in standard frame sizes with the Andersen name. People recognized the name, but not the fact they were cheaper windows.

As was stated, don't think you can make an operable double hung window that seals completely. Casements are better, but they have their own issues as well.

 

Thanks for the replies. The window parts are just over warranty period so I had to buy replacements from Anderson. I just received them today and will wait for a day where the sun isn't shining dead on to install. I believe only the glass is still covered now under warranty.

The model is called Narrowline; they don't tilt in at all.

Any good tips to check that the windows are properly installed? If not installed properly, can this be adjusted, or is a replacement necessary? I know there has been a little shifting in this area with the building settling (the building is the same age as the windows; original installed windows).

All I want is for this room to not feel like a freezer in the winter. It's not quite as bad as walking into say an uninsulated/unheated garage, but it's noticeaby chilly. I don't think I mentioned this in my original post, but this is a corner room. I don't know if having two exterior walls is contributing to the coldness relative to other rooms. I thought about getting isulation blown into the 2 walls. But I'm a little hesitant to spend significant money unless I'm fairly certain it will help correct the problem. The parts from Andersen were about $22 shipped.

 

IIRC (and it's been a while) the Narrowline non tilting are made like the 400 series, which is their best residential window. They may not have the Hi efficiency glass..I think that was an option.

Do the locks push all the way over? Can you push the sashes up and down to make them seal tighter