Input on installing new replacement Vinyl Single Hung Milgard Windows
#1
10-08-08, 01:35 PM
Input on installing new replacement Vinyl Single Hung Milgard Windows
I have received our Single Hung replacement Milgard windows to go where we have the original 1955 double hung wood windows. I will be installing these from the outside in but wanted to know what everyone recommends. Here are some steps I think I need to do but no 100% sure.
Steps to prep existing window
Remove Blind Stop
Remove Sash Channel
Take out existing windows
Clean up inside framing
Milgard window install
Predrill holes on sides of vinyl framing
Place window in existing frame
Shim up and balance
Screw in long drywall screws painted white on heads
Caulk around window
Install trim on exterior where blind stop would have been
Caulk around trim
...
Steps to prep existing window
Remove Blind Stop
Remove Sash Channel
Take out existing windows
Clean up inside framing
Milgard window install
Predrill holes on sides of vinyl framing
Place window in existing frame
Shim up and balance
Screw in long drywall screws painted white on heads
Caulk around window
Install trim on exterior where blind stop would have been
Caulk around trim
...
#2
10-08-08, 03:58 PM
Group Moderator
If you have a removable interior stop, I'd suggest you install them from inside. If the stop is behind the casing, then you have everything basically correct installing from the outside.
I wouldn't use drywall screws... get yourself some 2 or 2 1/2" stainless steel screws. By all rights, your windows should have come w/ their own installation screws. And don't use silicone anywhere it will show where you will need to paint!
I wouldn't use drywall screws... get yourself some 2 or 2 1/2" stainless steel screws. By all rights, your windows should have come w/ their own installation screws. And don't use silicone anywhere it will show where you will need to paint!
#4
10-09-08, 04:56 AM
The inside stop can be easily removed/reinstalled. The outside stop is actually part of the window frame and has to be sawed off or otherwise chewed off. The center parting bead is nailed in placed and is easily pryed out. The outside stop provides a more substantial stop for the window and allows someplace to caulk, which makes for a better weatherseal. And don't forget to seal the airspace between the new window and old frame. Use DAP foam or non-expanding foam. And as suggested above, there should be stainless screws supplied with the window, and there should predrilled holes in the side frame.
Your picture shows a window of about the 30's or 40's, but I don't see weight pockets, am I missing something??
Your picture shows a window of about the 30's or 40's, but I don't see weight pockets, am I missing something??
#5
10-09-08, 07:22 AM
#6
10-09-08, 02:05 PM
What kind of foam does everyone like to use that can be easily found and reasonably priced? Dispensing guns or straw cans.
DAPtex Plus Window & Door Foam Sealant
DAPtex Latex Insulating Foam Sealant
Hilti CF 812 Window & Door Pro Foam
GREAT STUFF PRO Window & Door
...
DAPtex Plus Window & Door Foam Sealant
DAPtex Latex Insulating Foam Sealant
Hilti CF 812 Window & Door Pro Foam
GREAT STUFF PRO Window & Door
...
#7
10-09-08, 02:53 PM
Super Moderator
I like the DAPtex Plus window and door. Water cleanup of any mistakes. Expands, but doesn't overexpand. Stays flexible.
It does need a cleaner surface to adhere than the solvent based stuff, in my experience.
About $5 (?) a can in the paint department of most places. One can will normally do a patio door. Can't say for windows, guess it depends on the size. My can says 510 ft at a 1/4" bead size.
btw...heres my thinking. Yes, filling the whole space is good, but I don't think it makes THAT much difference. A bead of foam at the outside of the frame then a bead on the inside, should (if done well) create a dead air space. I don't think that extra 1" or so of foam will change a lot. Better to make sure your caulking is done very well. Water will do more damage than a little bit of cold air.
It's your money though...it might be more important than I think. Prob a little harder to do with a replacement window also.
It does need a cleaner surface to adhere than the solvent based stuff, in my experience.
About $5 (?) a can in the paint department of most places. One can will normally do a patio door. Can't say for windows, guess it depends on the size. My can says 510 ft at a 1/4" bead size.
btw...heres my thinking. Yes, filling the whole space is good, but I don't think it makes THAT much difference. A bead of foam at the outside of the frame then a bead on the inside, should (if done well) create a dead air space. I don't think that extra 1" or so of foam will change a lot. Better to make sure your caulking is done very well. Water will do more damage than a little bit of cold air.
It's your money though...it might be more important than I think. Prob a little harder to do with a replacement window also.
#9
10-10-08, 08:19 AM
Super Moderator
Shouldn't be needed, thats really only for caulking large deep gaps or cracks. There are other uses, of course, but thats whats it was made for.
Are you using the head expanders on the windows?
Are you using the head expanders on the windows?
#10
10-10-08, 09:03 AM
To be honest I don't know because the windows are still in their pkging off the truck. Not sure if there is extenders or hardware. I'm going to be installing these tomorrow so I was going to get DAPtex Plus window and door & some stainless steel screws.
