hollow or solid core door
#1
10-11-08, 08:47 AM
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hollow or solid core door
After updating all of our interior doors we have just one left to replace. This door goes from the house to the garage. We currently have a hollow core door there. Would it be wiser to replace this with a solid core door rather than hollow?
#2
10-11-08, 08:53 AM
Super Moderator
Solid core or fire rated steel doors are required by most codes between living spaces and attached garages, so yes. Some places absolutely require the fire rated steel, it may even be in the national code now.
Call your local codes office to find out what they would require, could make things easier if/when you sell.
Call your local codes office to find out what they would require, could make things easier if/when you sell.
#3
10-11-08, 09:06 AM
Assuming code doesn't make the decision for you....
If your garage is able to be broken into etc you want solid.A hollow core door at that point would be easily breached no matter what kind of security you had on it and is in a location where noise etc would not deter breaking through it.
One thing to keep in mind.Solid core doors are much heavier than hollow.You'll need to be certain you have it well mounted on both the door and door frame sides.
If your garage is able to be broken into etc you want solid.A hollow core door at that point would be easily breached no matter what kind of security you had on it and is in a location where noise etc would not deter breaking through it.
One thing to keep in mind.Solid core doors are much heavier than hollow.You'll need to be certain you have it well mounted on both the door and door frame sides.
#4
10-11-08, 11:26 AM
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one more question
It looks like codes will dictate what we do. So that leads to one more question.....the framing. I see the standard 2 x 4 for the frame on the hinge side and it appears that there is another 2 x 4 next to it. And along this same wall, 12" away, there is another interior door for a small bath. Will the 2 2x4's be sufficient for a solid core door?
#5
10-11-08, 11:35 AM
Super Moderator
Yes, 2 studs (a king and jack) together, supporting the header, is what you should see. You'll be fine.
If you wind up keeping the existing frame and just installing a new solid core wood door, you'll need at least 3 hinges, and at least 1 long (3") screw in the each of the top 2 hinges. That will penetrate completely into the framing, and better support the door.
One note..a paneled solid wood door will not normally meet code, as the beveled part of the panel is too thin. It will need to be the flat solid core or steel normally.
If you wind up keeping the existing frame and just installing a new solid core wood door, you'll need at least 3 hinges, and at least 1 long (3") screw in the each of the top 2 hinges. That will penetrate completely into the framing, and better support the door.
One note..a paneled solid wood door will not normally meet code, as the beveled part of the panel is too thin. It will need to be the flat solid core or steel normally.
#6
10-11-08, 12:25 PM
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The header is supported by just one 2x4 on each side. We are planning on going with a pre hung door and hoping to match up with the interior doors. A slab is just way beyond our capabilities.
#7
10-11-08, 12:36 PM
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Ok, I wasn't clear, sorry. Yes, the jack is what supports the header. Yer good...
What kind of interior doors do you have now..paneled? Painted or stained? You could order a solid core interior prehung, but it won't have any weatherstripping, and really doesn't meet most codes, but it would be better than what you have, and you could add weatherstripping.
What kind of interior doors do you have now..paneled? Painted or stained? You could order a solid core interior prehung, but it won't have any weatherstripping, and really doesn't meet most codes, but it would be better than what you have, and you could add weatherstripping.
#8
10-11-08, 01:17 PM
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The interior doors are just the basic hollow, 6 panel prehung from Lowes with a fresh coat of white paint. They do offer a solid core upgrade in the style we have. What the "solid" consists of I have no idea. The existing door is hollow. The house was built in 1962 so hollow may have been the standard then.
#9
10-11-08, 01:57 PM
It isn't so much that hollow core was standard back then but the fact that codes were lax...... and a hollow core is cheaper.
Usually particle board is the filller on exterior wooden doors that aren't solid wood. Metal doors use styrofoam for insulation. You can get 6 panel metal doors tha are similiar to your six panel masonite doors. If you go with metal - make sure it will fit, it can't be trimmed down like a wood door.
Usually particle board is the filller on exterior wooden doors that aren't solid wood. Metal doors use styrofoam for insulation. You can get 6 panel metal doors tha are similiar to your six panel masonite doors. If you go with metal - make sure it will fit, it can't be trimmed down like a wood door.
#10
10-11-08, 02:12 PM
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#11
10-11-08, 02:27 PM
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And the solid core upgrade you mentioned is sort of an un-compressed masonite (the material, not the company). They used to call it Safe-N-Sound. It didn't quite meet the 15 min burn rating required, so they don't market it as a fire-proof though it used to say fire-resistant.
Go with a steel door if you can. Since they are painted, it should blend right in. Look closely at the sill and the wall thickness. You may want to take off the brickmold if it has it and use casing.
Go with a steel door if you can. Since they are painted, it should blend right in. Look closely at the sill and the wall thickness. You may want to take off the brickmold if it has it and use casing.
