Prehung ext door adjustments

Old 10-17-08, 07:07 AM
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Prehung ext door adjustments

I have just gotten this fiberglass exterior door installed and it looks pretty good and seems to open and close well.

As I stand back from a little distance on the inside, the gaps between the left and right jamb look pretty even but I notice on the top right side of the header jamb and door, the gap is minimal if any. I see this as a potential rub spot down the road. Above the jamb, there is a pretty good gap to the frame header. My question is, can I send some more screws through the header jamb on the right side up into the header framing to increase the gap between the header jamb and top of door so that I don't run into a rubbing problem down the road? Will this actually work?

And also why aren't the prerouted areas for the latch a standard size that match the lockset hardware or maybe I should ask why isn't the lockset hardware matching those prerouted spots for the strikeplate and deadbolt areas of the jamb? I am annoyed that I have to mortise those areas to fit the schlage hardware.

Old 10-17-08, 07:40 AM
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You can't go completely on the visual. Are your side jambs plumb? Is your head jamb level? Is the frame square? I've seen brand new expensive FG and steel doors that are put together badly enuf that the head jamb was out by 1/4" or more. You can have a racked door that gives plumb side jambs but unlevel head jamb. Of course then the door doesn't normally fit in the frame correctly.

I don't think putting a screw in the head jamb is a good idea, you could pull apart the frame or split the jamb trying to pull it up. Most doors don't recommend screws up there. Some sliders/french doors do, but just snug, not enuf to distort the frame at all.

Some locksets have multiple trim plates styles for the latches and deadbolts, others don't. I think I've had to do a little work on almost every jamb, esp now that security strikeplates are so common.

I'm sure some of the Pro's will have more complete suggestions...

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