Garage Door Bending In On Itself HELP!!!

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Old 11-16-08, 10:50 AM
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Unhappy Garage Door Bending In On Itself HELP!!!

My garage door is a multi-panel roll up, I installed a garage door opener about 7 years ago. The door has 3 steel vertical brace rails, one at each end and one in the middle- a normal garage door- the opener arm is attached to the middle steel rail, and is bolted through the rail to the outside of the door- a normal installation- but now when the door is in the up position, I noticed it sagging in the middle, forming a slight V shape. I noticed the top hard plastic horizontial cap rail is cracking right above where the opener arm is attached allowing this sagging!! I'm afraid of the door folding in on itself and falling on someone!! Can this happen? and how do I fix it, it obviously needs to be braced further, but how and using what? Any help will be GREATLY appreciated THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!!!
 
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Old 11-16-08, 11:02 AM
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This is probably one of the cheaper steel doors, no horizontal braces (struts), not "sandwich" construction....yes?

What is the brand/model? There should be a label on the top or ends of the panels somewhere.

You should contact the manufacturer or a door service company for your brand and either buy or have installed a horizontal strut that will run full length across the door. That may help limit further damage.

When you installed the opener did you follow the door makers instructions for reinforcing the attachment area? Many makers require additional brackets or angle iron reinforcement to that area. Even some that don't require it, it's a good idea.
 
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Old 11-16-08, 05:05 PM
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peglegpiney,

Sounds like you have an 8' to 10' wide door. Gunguy45 is correct you need a support strut attached to the top of that panel. I am going to assume that the spring or springs have lost some tension and made the door heavy. I am also going to assume that the garage door opener is pulling to hard also.

You can contact a local garage door repair company and inquire how much it will cost to adjust your spring or springs tension and install a ?' strut. Good luck I hope this helps,
 

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Old 11-17-08, 01:44 PM
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Thanks for the advice, yes there are no horizontal braces, just the verts. The opener manual only says that if you see sagging in the door, it may need to be reinforced, so now I have to reinforce it. There are holes in the vert. braces to put bolts through ( I guess for this very reason ). So now, what should I use, does garage-door places sell them, and should I put one on the outside of the door as well as the inside? And the springs are only about 4-5 years old, one snaped so I replaced them both, ( what a job that was, my God I had no idea how heavy those doors are!! ) so they should still be good. Thanks For The Advice!!
 
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Old 11-17-08, 02:11 PM
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Most steel doors do not bolt thru all the way to the outside. They use large sheet metal/self tapping screws to attach to the brace. Was there a tag that said "attach opener bracket here"?

Anyway, whats done is done.

The door should roll smoothly up and down and stop anywhere in the middle of the opening w/o slamming down or rolling back up. If not, then there is too much strain on the opener and the springs should be adjusted.

Most any garage door installers should have some struts in stock, but I would strongly suggest getting one specifically for your brand of door. The holes are normally pre-punched and they would have the correct hardware for attachment. The struts go only on the inside towards the top.

I would also suggest you either contact the manufacturer or visit their website for installation instructions.

Please post the brand if you know it. Just to add to the knowledge base. I'll guess a W-D or a Clopay based on your location.
 
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Old 11-18-08, 04:41 PM
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Yes you're correct, the vert. struts are pre-drilled for self-taping screws, the bolts(2), going through the door are for the opener only. I checked the door again, no brand name anywhere. The only thing I found is a sticker that says: installed and serviced by [name of company], exclusive Stanley Dealer; so lets assume its a Stanley. What I didn't mention, is that me and Mrs. smoke only in the garage, so to make sure smoke doesn't get into the house, we keep the door open about 4-6 inches, which adds to the stress placed on the opener-arm attachment point (its cracking above this point). And I do spray the rollers, hinges, and pullys with wd-40 every couple of months- so it doesn't dry out and start hanging up while in operation. Thank You so much for your help!!
 
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Old 11-18-08, 05:01 PM
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Well, Stanley openers haven't been around for ..ummm...10 yrs? Don't know about doors. A picture would probably let some of the experts (not me) have a chance at ID'ing the door.

As to the smokin thing, we do the same. One of the first things I did here was reinforce the door.

btw WD40 isn't the best choice.
 
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Old 11-19-08, 02:28 PM
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NO NO NO, sorry for the confusion, the garage door opener is a craftsman, the sticker on the garage door is what says Stanley. Either way, I have to reinforce it. So I looked around, and honstly don't know what to use, I need recomendations as to what to strap across the door: type of metal, flat or raised, bla bla bla, and what size tapping screws I want to do it ASAP. Like I said, the vert. struts are all ready with concave style pre-drilled holes (probably why their there).
Thanks For The Advise!!!
 
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Old 11-19-08, 02:50 PM
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Wow, I didn't even know Stanley made doors as well.

Please, call a local reputable garage door company and ask about a strut. You don't have to have them install it, but they should be able to help with parts.

They should be familiar with those doors if they were sold in your area.

A strut may run about $30 or so, depending on where you are. Its sort of a V shaped piece of sheetmetal with flat wings to attach it to the door.

Take pictures and measurements or just make a rubbing of the vertical supports and the hole you have and take them with you.
 
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Old 11-19-08, 03:39 PM
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Thanks Buddy, will do, it's on my list for tomorrow and I'll post the results of what comes with it, for all, in case anyone else has the same problem; thats what makes this site so GREAT, everyone has to contribute to make it work!!!
 
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Old 12-03-08, 11:29 AM
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The only thing you really can do and should do is replace that section, and to be honest, its usually cheaper to replace the entire door.

That being said, in order to buy you sometime, I would purchase some punched angle from your local hardware store and use that to 'cap' the door around where it is split. This will help provide some more strength to the cracked portion. Be advised that adding extra weight to the door does add extra stress to your springs (lowering their life cycle) and the operator.

I would also check the operator and the force and limit settings. From what I have seen over the years, this problem is a common cause from having the force set too high as well as the limits are set too far.

The force is the power that the operator outputs in order to open and close the door. The limits are how far the door travels in both the open and closed positions.

It sounds like your force AND your limits are set too far, thus the door is being PUSHED to the floor and pushed a little farther each time it reaches the floor, bending the steel of the section. This action repeated day after day year after year will eventually cause the "V" you are talking about.

CHEERS
 
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