was asked to make my own thread about this.. makes sense but i don't think sensibly a lot :p okay so the deal: garage door recently stopped going down correctly. will go up fine, but not down. it starts to go down, and then goes back up. holding down the hard-wired button does not make the door go down, and both the sensor lights are on, and breaking the line does make the receiver's light go off. last night, i discovered using the remote doesn't make it go up anymore (it did the day before that). the opener's light flashes at me two times and then doesn't do anything. also, the hard-wired button is flashing continually. and my roommate's dad oiled the wheels yesterday, which makes it go down correctly more often in our testing. now, in response to others: [quote]First thing I would do is disconnect the door from the operator and make sure its running smoothly, well balanced and with out obstruction. If it is then the problem is with the operator, not the door. If there is a problem with the door, it sounds like it could be the gears in the operator, or the circuit board. Both of wich you can get at any local garage door dealer and most big box stores. If it is a CB and your operator is older then 5 years or so I would just spend the money on a new operator rather then the $100 + for the CB.[/quote] it's a brand new opener system.. the gears in the old one went out and the guy who owns the house (we rent) went to sears and bought and installed a whole new one. it worked fine for about a month until a few days ago. so i really hope it's not that. if it is, hopefully there's some sort of warranty on it that todd can cash in. it does work fine if you do it manually. [quote]What exactly does/doesn't the opener do? Does the door function ok with the opener disconnected? You said.."doing the same thing lately", does it move at all? Does it start down then reverse after a few inches? Do you get any flashing lights when it reverses/doesn't move? What brand, type and model is it? Have you adjusted the down force slightly? If the downforce isn't set high enough, I don't think holding the button will make any difference, could be wrong on that.[/quote] by "with the opener disconnected" do you mean open and close if you do it manually? yes, works just fine then. as i elaborated above, it moves a few inches (actually a different amount every time) and then goes back up. flashing lights i only get on the hard-wired button, and then when i try to use the remote and it doesn't move. on the side it says craftsman 1/2 hp. i couldn't find a model number and i'm not sure what todd did with the box, but from the pictures online i think it's this one. [url=http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00953930000P]Craftsman 1/2 hp Garage Door Opener, Chain Drive - Model 53930 at Sears.com[/url] i changed the downforce a little and that seemed to help with the closing issue, but it still flashes twice when i try to use the remote. and the wall button is still flashing, too.

I have recently began removing 50 year old single pain fixed windows throughout my home. I have installed Thermastar windows to this 1960's brick home. Due to the maintainance issues involved I have selected to use PVC moulding on the exterier of the home. All the literature I have read indicates that this product can be installed much like wood and nailed preferrably with stainless steel finishing nails. The problem is this, I installed the windows inline with the rough opening sill, there is a 3/4 inch gap on the exterior of the window followed by the brick surface. I have filled the gap with Great Stuff, trimmed it, and want to affix PVC moulding......I have no expeosed wood to nail it to. I have read some earlier posts and I know that cementing the moulding together is incouraged to prevent srinkage......but how do I attach this to the home? Can I simply use a Type II silicon or some form of construction glue, ie liquid nails??? I could use some advice. I have pictures if this would help however am not sure how to post them here.