Installing replacement windows in a semi new construction job
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Installing replacement windows in a semi new construction job
Ok to start of I know my way around a lot of things and consider myself pretty handy but new to window installation.
I have a screened-in porch that I am converting to an additional room.
I purchased 4 windows on craigslist from a guy that I couldn't pass up, I got the low e triple pane vinyl windows for over 75% off. The problem is these are replacement windows and not new construction.
My problem is this... My screened in porch is semi framed for walls but no windows. Is it possible to just build headers and the window frame around the replacement window and install them that way instead of installing new constuction windows?
Would this be a huge headache? I am going to have to build the headers and window frames either way so wondering if new construction windows are even necessary?
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I have a screened-in porch that I am converting to an additional room.
I purchased 4 windows on craigslist from a guy that I couldn't pass up, I got the low e triple pane vinyl windows for over 75% off. The problem is these are replacement windows and not new construction.
My problem is this... My screened in porch is semi framed for walls but no windows. Is it possible to just build headers and the window frame around the replacement window and install them that way instead of installing new constuction windows?
Would this be a huge headache? I am going to have to build the headers and window frames either way so wondering if new construction windows are even necessary?
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
#2
The first thing you should probably check into is whether or not you could purchase some nailing fin for your windows. Many vinyl windows will have a groove around the edge of the window that can accept many types of "snap-in" accessories... nailing fin being one of them. You could contact the manufacturer, find a dealer, and either order some lineal, or perhaps if you give them the measurements of the window they can cut you the exact lengths you need and send them out. The benefit being, that if you can put nailing fin on the windows, you can install them into the rough opening just like a new construction window. (easy and fast)
If that isn't an option, you "could" just frame your rough openings 1/4" to 1/2" larger than the exact size of the windows, square and shim them in the openings, and install them flush with the exterior surface of your wall sheathing. Then your exterior trim (such as brickmold) would be applied over the face of the window like an exterior stop. (being sure not to block the weep holes along the bottom). You'd need to seal the seam between the window and the brickmold *very* well, because any leak there and you'd have water in the R.O. and down the wall. It's actually better to have a sloped sill on the bottom of the window rather than a piece of brickmold... you can make a fake sill (10 degree angle on top and bottom, wide enough to act as both a stop on the bottom of the window and as a drip edge over your siding) on a table saw by ripping some wood down to size. You'd fasten the "sill" to the sheathing, also nailed up into the bottom edge of the brickmould. The problem with such an installation is that you're relying on caulk to keep everything from leaking- not usually a good scenario.
Another option would be to actually make a true sloped sill and jamb with exterior stops for the replacement window to fit into... just like double hung windows used to be made in the "olden days". This would be much better than just stopping a window into a rough opening (like I described above) but it is a whole lot more work, and requires nice clear lumber and finish quality work.
So those are some initial thoughts that might get you started.
BTW, welcome to the forums... I see this is your first post.
If that isn't an option, you "could" just frame your rough openings 1/4" to 1/2" larger than the exact size of the windows, square and shim them in the openings, and install them flush with the exterior surface of your wall sheathing. Then your exterior trim (such as brickmold) would be applied over the face of the window like an exterior stop. (being sure not to block the weep holes along the bottom). You'd need to seal the seam between the window and the brickmold *very* well, because any leak there and you'd have water in the R.O. and down the wall. It's actually better to have a sloped sill on the bottom of the window rather than a piece of brickmold... you can make a fake sill (10 degree angle on top and bottom, wide enough to act as both a stop on the bottom of the window and as a drip edge over your siding) on a table saw by ripping some wood down to size. You'd fasten the "sill" to the sheathing, also nailed up into the bottom edge of the brickmould. The problem with such an installation is that you're relying on caulk to keep everything from leaking- not usually a good scenario.
Another option would be to actually make a true sloped sill and jamb with exterior stops for the replacement window to fit into... just like double hung windows used to be made in the "olden days". This would be much better than just stopping a window into a rough opening (like I described above) but it is a whole lot more work, and requires nice clear lumber and finish quality work.
So those are some initial thoughts that might get you started.
BTW, welcome to the forums... I see this is your first post.

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Thanks for the reply XSleeper. Well the first step I will take is contacting the manufacturer or see if there is a local dealer.
All other insight is welcome even if you think I should just go buy new construction windows.
All other insight is welcome even if you think I should just go buy new construction windows.

#4
Ok to start of I know my way around a lot of things and consider myself pretty handy but new to window installation.
I have a screened-in porch that I am converting to an additional room.
I purchased 4 windows on craigslist from a guy that I couldn't pass up, I got the low e triple pane vinyl windows for over 75% off. The problem is these are replacement windows and not new construction.
My problem is this... My screened in porch is semi framed for walls but no windows. Is it possible to just build headers and the window frame around the replacement window and install them that way instead of installing new constuction windows?
Would this be a huge headache? I am going to have to build the headers and window frames either way so wondering if new construction windows are even necessary?
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I have a screened-in porch that I am converting to an additional room.
I purchased 4 windows on craigslist from a guy that I couldn't pass up, I got the low e triple pane vinyl windows for over 75% off. The problem is these are replacement windows and not new construction.
My problem is this... My screened in porch is semi framed for walls but no windows. Is it possible to just build headers and the window frame around the replacement window and install them that way instead of installing new constuction windows?
Would this be a huge headache? I am going to have to build the headers and window frames either way so wondering if new construction windows are even necessary?
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
#5
Skipping over the spam.......I think you can install the replacements, since you got such a good deal. Let's wait and see what he manufacturer has to say. Too early to scrap your original plans. Keep us posted.
Larry
Larry
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we use replacement windows ( no nailing fins) on just about everything. If we need to we build a frame out of 1 x 6, put on an outside stop, and set the window. put on an inside stop and case it out.
Good Luck
Good Luck
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Thanks
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It's all on site. I will build a frame out of 1 x 6 and install the inside edge of the frame flush with your finish wall. Just like a any other window you R.O. should be 3/4" bigger on width and 1/2" on height(or somewhere around there) so you can shim it and get it Plumb/Level/Square. I like to use a 1 x 2 as an outside stop, screwed in flush with the outside edge of the outside edge of the 1 x 6 frame( use a 1 1/4 drywall screw). Now doing the math...
1 x 6 = 5.5"
1 x 2 = 1.5"
Replacement window = 3.25" for a Double Hung
SO..... 5.5 - 1.5 = 4 - 3.25 = .75 or a 3/4" quarter round for an inside stop would leave you flush with the inside finish wall.
You don't have to use this exact combination of lumber, but it is one that has worked for me in the past. It is a time saver because you dont have to use a table saw to rip exact dimensions of wall thickness and add extra casings. There is no one way to do things. There are good ways and better ways. Find the way that works best for your situation.
GOOD LUCK!
1 x 6 = 5.5"
1 x 2 = 1.5"
Replacement window = 3.25" for a Double Hung
SO..... 5.5 - 1.5 = 4 - 3.25 = .75 or a 3/4" quarter round for an inside stop would leave you flush with the inside finish wall.
You don't have to use this exact combination of lumber, but it is one that has worked for me in the past. It is a time saver because you dont have to use a table saw to rip exact dimensions of wall thickness and add extra casings. There is no one way to do things. There are good ways and better ways. Find the way that works best for your situation.
GOOD LUCK!
