Moving Hinges to Adjust Door?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Moving Hinges to Adjust Door?
I recently installed a 1 3/8" thick slab door in my powder room.
Unfortunately, as part of the remodel, the vanity was replaced and now when the door is opened into the powder room, it hits the front edge of the vanity top preventing the door from opening all the way. I probably need about 3/8 of an inch to clear the front of the vanity and get the door to fully open all the way.
I mortised the hinges utilizing a jig for my router and aside from the door hitting the vanity issue, it fits in the door frame well and all is level/plumb and all the clearances around the frame are fine.
Can I remortise for the hinges on the jamb as if I was using a 1 3/4" door?
This would move the hinges toward the door stop (not installed yet) and give me the 3/8" inch I need. I know the door will have a recessed look in the frame on the interior, but it is more important that I can open the door all the way.
I'm just concerned I will run into some unforseen issue with the door binding on the hinge side if I move the hinges in consistent with a 1 3/4" when I'm using a 1 3/8" door. The hinges I'm using are large enough to move in on the frame hinge side without the barrel hitting any interior casing.
Unfortunately, as part of the remodel, the vanity was replaced and now when the door is opened into the powder room, it hits the front edge of the vanity top preventing the door from opening all the way. I probably need about 3/8 of an inch to clear the front of the vanity and get the door to fully open all the way.
I mortised the hinges utilizing a jig for my router and aside from the door hitting the vanity issue, it fits in the door frame well and all is level/plumb and all the clearances around the frame are fine.
Can I remortise for the hinges on the jamb as if I was using a 1 3/4" door?
This would move the hinges toward the door stop (not installed yet) and give me the 3/8" inch I need. I know the door will have a recessed look in the frame on the interior, but it is more important that I can open the door all the way.
I'm just concerned I will run into some unforseen issue with the door binding on the hinge side if I move the hinges in consistent with a 1 3/4" when I'm using a 1 3/8" door. The hinges I'm using are large enough to move in on the frame hinge side without the barrel hitting any interior casing.
#2
You could probably get away with it, but I've never done it to accommodate such a clearance. As long as your door doesn't open more than 90 degrees it shouldn't bind. As a test, take the door down leaving the hinges attached to the door as units. Set the door in the frame allowing for your needed clearance and see what your setback would be. May be more than you anticipate.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
I'll give it a try
Thanks Chandler.
I'll give it a shot. I just didn't want to route out new mortises just to encounter another issue such as the door binding and then I would have to patch in the mortises.
If anybody else has ever had any experience moving the hinges like I want to do, I'd be interested in seeing what you have learned or experienced.
I'll give it a shot. I just didn't want to route out new mortises just to encounter another issue such as the door binding and then I would have to patch in the mortises.
If anybody else has ever had any experience moving the hinges like I want to do, I'd be interested in seeing what you have learned or experienced.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
No can do
Because the door would then open into the hallway and you could only get into the powder room from one side of the door as the open door would block access from the one side.
The door swings into the powder room and goes against (or it's supposed to) an unused wall. Vanity is straight in front of the doorway and toilet is to the left.
The door swings into the powder room and goes against (or it's supposed to) an unused wall. Vanity is straight in front of the doorway and toilet is to the left.
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Success
Re-mortised the hinges to set them into the jamb as if they were for a 1 3/4" door as opposed to the actual door thickness of 1 3/8" and it allowed the door to fully open and clear the vanity top.
The door on the interior does sit recessed in the frame by 3/8" but like I said, I can live with that since the goal was to get the door to fully open.
Lesson learned--don't forget to add in the overhang on the vanity top when adding up dimensions in such a small space as a powder room. I only measured the depth of the vanity cabinet and that 1" overhang for the front of the vanity top is what caused all of this problem.
Thanks Chandler for the suggestion to unscrew the hinges from the jamb as a unit and check to see if the door cleared first.
The door on the interior does sit recessed in the frame by 3/8" but like I said, I can live with that since the goal was to get the door to fully open.
Lesson learned--don't forget to add in the overhang on the vanity top when adding up dimensions in such a small space as a powder room. I only measured the depth of the vanity cabinet and that 1" overhang for the front of the vanity top is what caused all of this problem.
Thanks Chandler for the suggestion to unscrew the hinges from the jamb as a unit and check to see if the door cleared first.
#7
Glad it worked out. If it looks recessed from the inside, that's probably ok, since it is only seen for a short time, and fashion isn't required in that room's purpose.