Hanging a door from inside the room

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Old 04-05-09, 02:45 PM
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Hanging a door from inside the room

I'm finishing my basement and I'm installing 2 doors.

First one is the access to the unfinished portion, pretty straight forward install.

The second, however, is simply for electrical panel access. the door will open into the finished room and reveal the block wall and the electrical panel.

I understand that a pre-hung door should be installed with the door in the jamb, but, with the door still in the jamb, I can't access any of the jamb to screw the jamb to the wall.

How is this done?
 
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Old 04-05-09, 02:53 PM
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Unless the room is pretty big..you may want it to open out. Wait, thats what you were saying...sorry.

You need to be inside to do it the easiest. I've done it by removing the door and attaching the hinge side, then squaring everything up, but its a pain.

I may not have a clear picture of the issue. You do have the required clearances in front of the panel right? I thought you needed 30" in front of the panel. I may be wrong.
That should give working room, even if it's tight.
 
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Old 04-05-09, 04:17 PM
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No, the door opens into the finished room.

Actually, I think code is 36". In some jurisdictions, Columbus included, they will allow an open door to provide the access as long as it opens at least 90 degrees and completely reveals the panel. That's what I'm doing, I've run my wall (I'm using a pre-fabbed basement finishing panels) ~6 inches from the block wall and I've left an opening for a door in front of the box.

I've already had my plans reviewed and I pulled a permit for it, so I'm good to go. I've actually already been through my framing/insulation inspection.

It sounds like I'm going to have to do it the hard way , as you've described, there's no room to be on the other side. I was hoping there were some tricks.
 
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Old 04-06-09, 04:26 AM
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Door

Make sure the door is properly positioned in the jamb with the correct clearances. Set the unit in place and nail the casings on each side and top. Then carefully support the door and open it. Shim under the open corner at the floor to temporarily support the weight of the door. Secure the jambs as needed.
 
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Old 04-06-09, 02:57 PM
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I would center the door in the opening then shim it tightly at the top. After it is shimmed securely you can make sure the head is level shimming if needed then open it and secure the hinge side, shimming as needed to make it plumb. After the hinge side is secure close the door and use it to gauge the latch side and head then shim as needed to make the space even all the way around.

Bill
 
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Old 04-11-09, 03:55 PM
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Wirepuller was close. Nail the casing on the opening side, put it in the hole, nail the casing while adjusting the unit, open door, shim jambs, nail off. Or, nail the shims on the hinge side plumb without any parts, install door- shoot the hinge side, set reveal from other side, shim and nail. Be safe, GBR
 
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Old 04-12-09, 04:06 AM
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If the door is against a block wall how are you going to get in to shim properly if installing the trim on the outside first?

Bill
 
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Old 04-12-09, 11:18 AM
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Ahhhhhhh......... I misread. You're right, i'm not that skinny! Thank you, sir.

Then, I'd pick my option #2, I said - with a twist. Nail hinge-side shims plumb, install casing to hall side of door, tape two nickels- to top of door and latch top edge on door-close door, install, nail casing while holding tight to hinge side. Be safe, GBR
 
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