Adhesive on wrap

In the installation instructions for my aluminum windows, the mfr. says to spray the buidling wrap with spray adhesive before applying the self-adhesive flashing tape that forms the link to the nailing fin. Will spray adhesive (e.g., 3M 77) adhere to 30# builders' felt?

 

Self adhesive means just that, but I suspect they are covering all bases. They want to be sure the adhesive flashing covere the nail fins, and stays there. Yes, it will stick to felt.

Sorry for bing critical, but I must. Why aluminum windows??? They are not very energy efficient, even modern ones.

 

It's a garage. .

 

Doesn't matter. If not properly flashed it will still cause rot issues.

 

I thought the issue with aluminum was about energy efficiency, not rot . . . I went with aluminum because of the price and because there are 2 garage doors in the same space. I don't think 2 small energy-efficient windows will make much difference when I open a garage door several tmes a day.

I'm hoping to flash them properly, with your help.

 

Proper flashing around windows in more about keeping water away from the framing than it is about air leakage. Aluminum windows and energy efficiency should not be used in the same sentence.

 

suobs...yer fine...

On doors I would wrap the tape around the framing towards the interior, then put caulk under the brickmold of the door..oops..wrong post.

Do the correct overlap on the tape..bottom over into the sill, then sides, then top. Don't forget the drip edge over the top. Caulk where required. Esp where siding butts to the windows.

 

The drip cap is metal flashing? If so, it goes under the exterior trim of the window or over it? That detail is not in the Jeld-Wen installation instructions. Is this something I can buy?

Also, do you use something similar over a door casing?

As a side note, I'll just point out that my original question was about glue. But if you guys want to talk about flashing I'll go with the flow!

 

It goes under the siding, on top of the tape, over the top of the window...it may not be absolutely required, but its cheap insurance. You may also see it as Z flashing, use whatever fits your window profile.

And yes...definitly over the door, same thing...under the siding, extends out over the trim of the door.

As to the glue...isn't 77 the red can? There was one step above that that was much better...Super 90 maybe?

 

I'm not seeing anything with a z profile in stores except the kind with the 5/8" flange for plywood. The only drip cap is the L shaped kind for roofing.

I'll have to make them from aluminum roll flashing.

Yes, I've seen the upgrade adhesive 3M Super 90 or 99 or something. I'll try it.

 

Where are you located...? Even out here in super dry AZ they carry drip cap....

 

South Florida. You would think so. Not at HD and not at Lowe's. I'm looking in the roofing/siding section where all the flashing is. I don't remember seeing it with the window trim either altho I didn't really search there.

Another question: you would put the door trim up before the siding? It's T1-11 plywood you'll recall. And leave 1/4" gap between the siding and the trim? And nail the trim to the door jambs (is that called the casing?) and framing? And fill the gap with caulk?

I'm sure it will all start to make sense this weekend when I install the windows and doors. I'd like to feel like I understand the process before starting though. Thanks for your help!

 

I give up. Can't find z-flashing in window trim sizes anywhere, even online. Are you sure you don't mean ordinary roofing drip cap that goes under the edge of shingles at the fascia, which has an "L" profile with a little lip at one end? On a window, this kind of flashing would only extend out to the top edge of the trim, not below it.

Interestingly, I've had 3 salesmen at Lowes and 2 Home Depots tell me they do carry window drip edge with a z-profile. Then they take me to the flashing and can't find it on the shelf or on the shelf labels.

 

Yep, that's it:

CMI at Lowe's: 1/2" x 5/8" x 2" x 10' Bonderized Siding Z Bar Flashing

Notice it is 5/8" thickness, if your windows are thicker, go to a lumberyard, or roofing supply house.

I would install the door after I flush cut the siding on the jambs, and hold the siding 1/2" higher than the brick moulding at the head. Install the flashing after bending it 5* more than 90*, so when installed the water runs away from the wall, not sit and collect. The flashing top goes under the paper above the door. Caulk the corners (ends of flashing) under and over the flashing, so water doesn't wick or blow into the top corners of flash/door or flash/siding. Caulk and paint the cut edges on the siding to help seal it. Be safe, G

 

You're saying to put the trim over the siding on the jambs, but against the framing at the top. This means the drip edge flange on the z-flashing has to be 5/8" for the siding + about 1" for the brick mould. That's a custom drip edge. It's custom even with the moulding on the framing. Another issue is the top mouldig would be a different depth than the side moulding.

It also creates another problem. Continuous sheets of siding will extend to the top of the wall on both sides of the door. In fact, they have to. They would have to be notched for the drip edge to cover the jamb ends of the top brick mould.

I'll probably go ahead and install the moulding first, butt the siding to it, and I'm having custom drip edges made.

Many thanks!

 

I said it wrong, sorry. The door brick mold nails against the stud/trimmer. Then side it, holding the head cut slightly higher to get water run off.

Here is the correct flashing: Amerimax at Lowe's: 2" x 2" x 10' Roof Edge

One side or the other should work, it's been a while since I've done any T-1-11.

Be safe, G

 

So it does exist!! Unfortunately not available at any Lowes' near me . . . it would be perfect, though - it's exactly what I ordered made.