I'm looking to shrink the opening of a bedroom closet. The closet is non-standard size and I don't want to get custom doors for it. Basically I want to build a plug to fill the top 8" or so.

I have two questions regarding this that I'd love some input on.

1. As the true load bearing header is already in place in the existing doorway, I probably don't need to use a 4x4 for the new 'header' right? I'm just screwing a small piece of cosmetic framing into the opening, so I should be able to use 2x4's all around?

2. Any opinion as to whether I should cut out the drywall on the existing header and screw directly to the wood, or can I just screw through the drywall to mount the plug?

Thanks for any advice. I'm fairly new to this kind of home project so I appreciate your help.

 

First I suggest you use screws for this. Easier to install, more accurate because the board isn't jumping as you fasten and easy to adjust if you don't get it right the first time.. Three inch Sheetrock screws should be ok. Remove about 2" of Sheet rock from the face of the header on either side. A 2X4 for the new header is fine. Install short wood blocks on either side to screw it to. Drill 3/16" clearance holes in the blocks and new header. then just screw in. No pilot holes need if you are using a screw gun or electric drill to screw but always use clearance holes in the board being fastened so the threads don't catch and jack it out.

Your Sheetrock patch goes from new header to spot you cleared on old header. You could just "toe screw" in the header and not use blocks, and many pros would just toe-nail but for a non-pro the way I suggested is easier and easily corrected if you get it wrong.

 

Do you have access to a nail gun? Much stronger, that is why there is a minimum nail size for different framing lumber and sheathing. Single Family Residential Construction Guide - Nailing Schedule
Screws are not a substitute for nails. They don't have the shear a nail does. They are allright for non-structural applications, drywall, backer board, deck boards, etc. I can imagine someone later hanging a pair of mirrored sliding by-pass doors and getting a rude surprise. Be safe, G

 

But of course the track is fastened to the jam header. The horizontal top of the jamb not the framing header.. The screws would usually never go into the framing header. It is not uncommon to leave a 1" space between the top of the jamb and the header. Maybe not best practice but in most contractor installs I have seen there are no shims and the jamb header isn't fastened to the framing header. Of course if the poster installed the jamb top against the new header or shimmed then the jamb sides would transfer the load to the floor.

 

Thanks for your replies. It sounds like I should probably use nails anywhere that could experience a vertical sheer force, such as when attaching the sides of the new piece to the existing door jam.

Just to confirm that you all understand what I'm talking about, here's a really rough, NOT-TO-SCALE, general drawing of my plan. Please feel free to comment.

 

Looks ok.

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