two sagging doors
#1
09-09-09, 07:21 PM
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two sagging doors
Hello,
I have two doors, one exterior and one interior (both solid and heavy though) that are sagging. The interior door has pulled the top hinge pretty much out of the jamb(?) and will not shut by about 1/8". The exterior door itself is separating just enough to require slamming to close. My plan for the interior door is to either fill in the existing holes, redrill and put longer screws in there to attach the hinges.
I don't know what to do with the exterior door.....my thought is to sand or plane the door enough to provide clearance. This is a rental house so a major repair is not feasible.
As you can tell by now, I have no clue what I am doing. Advice? I have the ability just not the knowledge.
I have two doors, one exterior and one interior (both solid and heavy though) that are sagging. The interior door has pulled the top hinge pretty much out of the jamb(?) and will not shut by about 1/8". The exterior door itself is separating just enough to require slamming to close. My plan for the interior door is to either fill in the existing holes, redrill and put longer screws in there to attach the hinges.
I don't know what to do with the exterior door.....my thought is to sand or plane the door enough to provide clearance. This is a rental house so a major repair is not feasible.
As you can tell by now, I have no clue what I am doing. Advice? I have the ability just not the knowledge.
#2
09-09-09, 07:58 PM
Group Moderator
A sagging door will usually have a bigger gap on the top of the door (latch side), and it will sometimes hit on the side jamb near the top as it closes.
The most common fix is to install longer screws through the jamb side hinge, especially at the top hinge location. A 2 1/2 or 3" long screw will usually be long enough to penetrate the jamb, rough opening, and will reach the studs.
If the screws have pulled out of the door itself, then yes, perhaps longer screws of the same diameter would be in order. Larger diameter screws can be used, provided the heads of the screws do not prevent the hinge from closing. Hinges can be reamed with a countersink to accommodate the head of a larger screw.
The most common fix is to install longer screws through the jamb side hinge, especially at the top hinge location. A 2 1/2 or 3" long screw will usually be long enough to penetrate the jamb, rough opening, and will reach the studs.
If the screws have pulled out of the door itself, then yes, perhaps longer screws of the same diameter would be in order. Larger diameter screws can be used, provided the heads of the screws do not prevent the hinge from closing. Hinges can be reamed with a countersink to accommodate the head of a larger screw.
#3
09-09-09, 09:35 PM
It's a rental, so you are the tenant?
Try the longer screws as suggested by XSleeper. If that doesn't correct the problem, call the landlord. It's not th tenant's responsibility to do repairs, and you certainly don't want to be liable for anything more than installing longer screws.
Try the longer screws as suggested by XSleeper. If that doesn't correct the problem, call the landlord. It's not th tenant's responsibility to do repairs, and you certainly don't want to be liable for anything more than installing longer screws.
#4
09-10-09, 12:39 AM
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lefty - yes i am the tenant but the landlords are friends and this kinda gives me something to fix for them. i like to do the repairs and would clear anything with them beforehand. completely understand on the liability part.
xsleeper - i think that will fix the interior door problem. door side seems to be fine. i will head to the hardware store tomorrow.
my quest is the exterior door problem. i can see daylight on the latch side and there is at least a 5/8" gap looking at the top of the door latch side. i just wonder how it still closes and the deadbolt latches.... the side where the hinges are is pretty even. would pictures help?
xsleeper - i think that will fix the interior door problem. door side seems to be fine. i will head to the hardware store tomorrow.
my quest is the exterior door problem. i can see daylight on the latch side and there is at least a 5/8" gap looking at the top of the door latch side. i just wonder how it still closes and the deadbolt latches.... the side where the hinges are is pretty even. would pictures help?
#5
09-10-09, 07:11 AM
For the exterior door, the problem could be about the same as the interior door. Try using longer screws in the top and center hinges. If that doesn't pull it back up to where it is supposed to be, then it MAY BE that the studs in the hinge side have moved away from the latch side.
Since you have to slam it to get it to latch, it could be that the door has warped as well. Once you get the door centered in the jamb so that the gaps are even on both sides and is straight across the top, the weather stripping on the exterior side may need to be adjusted or replaced.
Since you have to slam it to get it to latch, it could be that the door has warped as well. Once you get the door centered in the jamb so that the gaps are even on both sides and is straight across the top, the weather stripping on the exterior side may need to be adjusted or replaced.
#6
09-10-09, 10:23 AM
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thanks guys!
in the exterior door, the door itself is the problem. there is an even gap on the hinge side but on the latch side - it rubs and you can see where the door is physically separating. not much but enough to cause contact with the door jamb. i think i can solve it by shaving off some of the door but imagine the door will keep separating.
thanks so much for the help!!
in the exterior door, the door itself is the problem. there is an even gap on the hinge side but on the latch side - it rubs and you can see where the door is physically separating. not much but enough to cause contact with the door jamb. i think i can solve it by shaving off some of the door but imagine the door will keep separating.
thanks so much for the help!!
#7
09-10-09, 10:37 AM
(I'm assuming that this is a wood door.) What's seperating? The skin from the frame? If so, gently pull the skin back a little, squeeze some wood glue in and clamp it. An hour or so (assuming that you use a yellow glue like Tite Bond) and the joint will hold.
