Moving a Door
#1
09-29-09, 07:44 AM
Moving a Door
Good day all, I've recently purchased a new home and want to make some updates. Likely the most difficult project on my list in moving the entry door (from garage into living area) from the front of the house/garage to the back.
I've attached a very crude mock up to illustrate what I'm interested in attempting. Anyone with prior experience want to share some tips or suggestions of things to be aware of and keep in mind? I'm interested in knowing approximately how long a project, like this, will take. I can easily dedicate 2-3 days (in a row) of work to complete it. My questions are
1. How tough is a project like this?
2. How much would a project like this run (we're recycling the door)
3. What all is involved?
Helpful information
- The house is just over 40 y/o
- The wall is drywall, insulated with studs and firewall on the garage side.
- We want to reuse the existing door.
* Please post any questions needing additional information
Thanks for reading,
Jeff
http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/u...garagedoor.jpg
I've attached a very crude mock up to illustrate what I'm interested in attempting. Anyone with prior experience want to share some tips or suggestions of things to be aware of and keep in mind? I'm interested in knowing approximately how long a project, like this, will take. I can easily dedicate 2-3 days (in a row) of work to complete it. My questions are
1. How tough is a project like this?
2. How much would a project like this run (we're recycling the door)
3. What all is involved?
Helpful information
- The house is just over 40 y/o
- The wall is drywall, insulated with studs and firewall on the garage side.
- We want to reuse the existing door.
* Please post any questions needing additional information
Thanks for reading,
Jeff
http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/u...garagedoor.jpg
#2
09-29-09, 01:47 PM
Removing the existing door without damaging the frame might not be so easy. The next thing is, you have to be sure that there are no cables or pipes in the wall where you want to cut the new opening. Other than that, if you have basic framing knowledge, you should be able to do it.
One more thing: How are you going to match the exterior shingles or siding where the door is being removed?
One more thing: How are you going to match the exterior shingles or siding where the door is being removed?
#3
09-29-09, 06:45 PM
As mentioned, look for and move any wiring (after tripping the breaker to that) before you cut the new hole. Frame and install a new header, furr up the floor where the plate was, if needed, install new stud and trimmers, and drywall the new opening. THEN remove the door casings, cut side nails from the jambs, after removing the hinge pins (label them, do not mix), and door slab. Lift out frame (jambs, head, thresh-hold) and install temp. in new hole. Adjust door with shims, nail off, install casing. Patch old opening. Fire-tape on garage side, texture house side.
Be safe, Gary
Be safe, Gary
#4
09-29-09, 07:12 PM
Pulpo and Gary covered it -- the issue will be any plumbing or wiring in the wall where the door will be going.
If there is any, the wiring is easy to deal with for any competent handy person. If you have any doubts about you ability, or if State Law says you must, then hire an electrician to deal with it.
If plumbing is involved, water pipe is pretty easy to deal with as well, as long as you have the ability to reroute it. Any drain or vent pipe in the wall will be trickier. Drains have to run downhill, and vents have to run uphill.
The framing and finishing is pretty straight forward. Just remember that on the garage side you need a firewall. The sheetrock on that side will be 5/8", and any joints have to be taped. The door itself has to be fire rated for at least 20 minutes. A solid wood door MIGHT work, as long as it's fire rated. A metal door will work.
If there is any, the wiring is easy to deal with for any competent handy person. If you have any doubts about you ability, or if State Law says you must, then hire an electrician to deal with it.
If plumbing is involved, water pipe is pretty easy to deal with as well, as long as you have the ability to reroute it. Any drain or vent pipe in the wall will be trickier. Drains have to run downhill, and vents have to run uphill.
The framing and finishing is pretty straight forward. Just remember that on the garage side you need a firewall. The sheetrock on that side will be 5/8", and any joints have to be taped. The door itself has to be fire rated for at least 20 minutes. A solid wood door MIGHT work, as long as it's fire rated. A metal door will work.
#5
10-02-09, 01:28 PM
Thanks for all the helpful responses. Since, I have not actually moved into the home yet, I don't have every bit of info needed and have not been abole to make a full survey of the project areas. I can say that the door we are going to use is metal so that should cover the fire (door) issue.
Just curious, if anyone can forsee additional materials that I'll need (providing there is no wiring/plumbing behind the wall), other than studs for the new frame, insulation & dry wall and sheetrock to close up the existing door, and (potential) new crown molding (if the current frame gets damaged)
Pulpo: The door I'm moving is the one that leads from the garage into the house so I won't bother to match the shingles or siding - The front door still matches though
#8
10-05-09, 01:36 PM
Originally Posted by Pulpo
I meant match the shingles & siding in the section that you are closing.
