Exterior Door Install
#1
10-04-09, 11:45 AM
Exterior Door Install
I read some questions on putting in an exterior door. My situation is: I'm wanting to use an existing door that is on a wall between kitchen and garage and move it to an exterior door location on my enclosed/remodeled garage. This is a plain steel exterior door, but is just a 4 9/16 jamb. I've framed up the new opening, but have not cut out the brick yet. My questions are exactly how do I frame the opening(even though I've already framed it with 2x4's) when it has a brick veneer which is almost 2 inches away from the 2x4 framing?
I did buy 2 pieces of brick moulding which is 1 1/4 wide and 1 in. wide on the other side. The top of the doorway will not have brick since my brick veneer stops there anyway where facia boards are. Can I make the standard door w/standard jamb width work here, or not? I dearly want to use the existing door and jamb because of expenses. Also: when I cut the brick out, what can I do to cover the cut areas of brick? It will not look good without doing something. Any info. helpful and appreciated.
I did buy 2 pieces of brick moulding which is 1 1/4 wide and 1 in. wide on the other side. The top of the doorway will not have brick since my brick veneer stops there anyway where facia boards are. Can I make the standard door w/standard jamb width work here, or not? I dearly want to use the existing door and jamb because of expenses. Also: when I cut the brick out, what can I do to cover the cut areas of brick? It will not look good without doing something. Any info. helpful and appreciated.
#2
10-04-09, 12:13 PM
Group Moderator
Hi Jalford,
I'm not quite sure I understand your predicament. But the 2" gap you mention sounds a little large from what is the norm around here. Usually you have about 1" of space from the felt covered sheathing of the home to the back side of the brick. The outside of the door jamb is usually positioned so that it is at the same level as the sheathing and felt paper. And then brickmould, which is 1 1/4" wide, is wide enough to barely cover the edge of the brick. From what you are saying, you need something that is 2" wide to barely cover the brick? Perhaps you could just take off the brickmould and furr it out 3/4" if that's the case. Basically adding a 3/4" extension onto the outside of the door jamb before putting the brickmould back on.
As far as the brick goes, the best thing to do is to "tooth out" the bricks that are cut, removing them all, and turn them around so that the factory side is exposed and the cut side is against the new mortar. Not the easiest thing to do. Another option is to cut the bricks out wider than needed, and install a NEW soldier row or "stackbond" of bricks around the perimeter of the opening... provided you have or can find some bricks that will match or at least not clash with the existing.
Trimming (covering) the cut edge of the brick with something would probably look pretty "hokie"... which is just an expression we use around here for something cobbled together. Nothing against any of you Virginia Tech fans out there. LOL
I'm not quite sure I understand your predicament. But the 2" gap you mention sounds a little large from what is the norm around here. Usually you have about 1" of space from the felt covered sheathing of the home to the back side of the brick. The outside of the door jamb is usually positioned so that it is at the same level as the sheathing and felt paper. And then brickmould, which is 1 1/4" wide, is wide enough to barely cover the edge of the brick. From what you are saying, you need something that is 2" wide to barely cover the brick? Perhaps you could just take off the brickmould and furr it out 3/4" if that's the case. Basically adding a 3/4" extension onto the outside of the door jamb before putting the brickmould back on.
As far as the brick goes, the best thing to do is to "tooth out" the bricks that are cut, removing them all, and turn them around so that the factory side is exposed and the cut side is against the new mortar. Not the easiest thing to do. Another option is to cut the bricks out wider than needed, and install a NEW soldier row or "stackbond" of bricks around the perimeter of the opening... provided you have or can find some bricks that will match or at least not clash with the existing.
Trimming (covering) the cut edge of the brick with something would probably look pretty "hokie"... which is just an expression we use around here for something cobbled together. Nothing against any of you Virginia Tech fans out there. LOL
#3
10-05-09, 04:58 AM
exterior door reply
Hey, thanks, Yeah the space between sheathing is around 2 inches to back of brick. I can do that adding 3/4 or more to the framing so that the brick mold will just come to the edge of brick, but will I need a wider door jamb than the standard 4 9/16?
Also: I've got some of that stone veneer left over from the garage opening enclosure that I could cut to fit over the brick where it will be cut, maybe that want look too Hookie.
I couldn't find my brick anywhere tomatch it so that is why i went with stone veneer for my garage wall enclosure. I will have several brick left intack when I cut the opening out though. Any more info. thanks.
Also: I've got some of that stone veneer left over from the garage opening enclosure that I could cut to fit over the brick where it will be cut, maybe that want look too Hookie.
I couldn't find my brick anywhere tomatch it so that is why i went with stone veneer for my garage wall enclosure. I will have several brick left intack when I cut the opening out though. Any more info. thanks.
