Installing storm door


  #1  
Old 10-12-09, 03:21 PM
I
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 67
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Installing storm door

I am installing a pella storm door where there was no storm door before. I have sidelights on both sides of my front door. I have brickmould surrounding my door, but need to add on to this in order to get the storm door on. My door handle extends an inch past my brickmould.

Should I buy another piece of brickmould and add it on to the existing brickmould? Then would I need to add a half inch piece to allow the frame to fit? Or should I notch out a half inch from the new brickmould? Or something else?
 
  #2  
Old 10-12-09, 03:55 PM
J
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Wilmington
Posts: 4,214
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Have never seen a doorknob that extends that far, but I believe you. Rather than modify the door framing, why not replace the door knob assy.??? If I were going to build out the trim, I would remove the brickmold, add a piece under it and then reinstall the brickmold.
 
  #3  
Old 10-12-09, 04:02 PM
I
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 67
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
JB - I just installed that doorknob to replace an older pitted one. The wife loves it, so that's not an option...

I am looking at my door frame, and I am stumped about the top. I have a pella door, and the top mounting frame instructions say to mount on the outside of the top brickmould. My measurement is 6" from door. So, I have 2" of brickmould on the sides of my door. Therefore I have 4" from the existing side brickmould outwards to reach the front of the top.

Does this mean I have to build out the sides so the top is flush?
 
  #4  
Old 10-12-09, 04:43 PM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,112
Received 4 Votes on 4 Posts
You probably don't have BM between the sidelights and door frame. Never saw one done that way. If there was never a storm, then they probably didn't specify a build out when ordering the main door.

You probably have trim stapled or nailed to cover the joint between the sidelights and door frame.

Yes, you will need to add wood. Normally its ripped down from a good 2X4 for that large a space.

A picture would be great....http://forum.doityourself.com/electr...your-post.html
 
  #5  
Old 10-12-09, 08:41 PM
I
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 67
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Ok, I am attempting to get a pic posted here. (first try...) If you can see the photo, you will see what I think is brickmoulding acting as my doorframe, then the top of my doorway, which has brickmoulding on the outside, but with a notch to make it more asthetically pleasing (I guess) but is confusing me with where to attach my center header...

http://img65.imageshack.us/img65/587...ment2ic.th.jpg
 
  #6  
Old 10-13-09, 04:29 AM
johnam's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: USA
Posts: 2,007
Received 8 Votes on 8 Posts
You'll have to add a piece of wood at the top to mount the storm door header. Check your measurement between the threshold and the added piece to make sure the height of the door will fit.
 
  #7  
Old 10-13-09, 10:17 AM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,112
Received 4 Votes on 4 Posts
Kinda hard to see..pic is a little small.

What I understand is you are saying your handle extends past the trim on the sides between the door frame and sidelight frame? Thats not really BM, just trim..called a mull strip IIRC. If the handle is really extending past the BM at the top..then thats one long handle!

As I said..you will need to build up the trim between the sidelights and the door. Does your threshold come out even with the front of the actual BM around the perimeter? Or does it only extend as far as the mull strip? I've seen it happen when the door wasn't ordered correctly and the frame had to be built out to match the wall thickness.
 
  #8  
Old 10-13-09, 05:02 PM
I
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 67
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
The door handle only extends an inch past the "mull strip IIRC". The threshold does extend to be consistent with the top brickmould piece.

So my conclusion is: I need to build out my mull strip IIRC.

Remaining questions are: Should I build out with the same thickness as the mull strip? (2" wide) How far do I build it out? In line with the end of my threshold, or just before to allow for a final piece with a 1/2" reveal? Also, do I need to add a small strip of wood at the top, just under my brickmould to make the top a perfect 90 degree corner? And what is the best way to add the build out piece? Kreg pocket jig?
 
  #9  
Old 10-14-09, 07:58 AM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,112
Received 4 Votes on 4 Posts
It should be built out even with the flat inner edge of the brickmold, so you have a flat even plane around the door to mount the storm door frame. That may or may not come out to the end of the threshold. If you look at the side BM, thats where the buildout should land on the threshold. The threshold should extend about 1/2" past the BM on the bottom? Otherwise you won't have anything for the bottom of the storm to seal against. Check to make sure before you even start the work.

You'll probably have to put a slight bevel on the bottom to match the angle of the threshold. The ones from the factory use countersunk screws. Since you'll be building out so much, you'll have to really countersink them deeply, then plug the holes with dowel stock, sand and paint. I'd use whatever length deck screws you need..probably 3 - 3 1/2", about every 12". Smaller buildouts can be nailed, but that won't work for such a large one.

I'd use a straight flat clear as possible 2 X 4 (1 1/2" thick) ripped to the right width right on top of the mull strip. You want to keep the spacing exactly at what is called for in the instructions. Normally thats right at 36 1/4" or so. I try to go right in the middle of the range called for to allow plenty of room for adjustment. That may mean it sits to the inner edge (door side)of the mull strip, and it will leave a slight reveal on the outside (sidelight side)..it will be a nice detail for the eye.

You'll have to notch the top slightly it to fit over the door frame and butt flush against the upper brickmold.

By the way...IIRC means If I Remember Correctly...it wasn't part of the name of the trim.
 
  #10  
Old 10-14-09, 03:45 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 27,078
Received 903 Votes on 829 Posts
I believe the wood that you add to each mullion should only be 1 1/2" wide at the most on each side, so that you have either 32" or 36" (depending on the size of door) between those fillers. (In my experience, 31 7/8" and 35 7/8" works better) That way your storm door will fit perfectly in the space, with no need for shims.

Nice clear wood is hard to find in the big box stores but you might have good luck looking through the red cedar 2x6's, if they are available in your area. You can usually get a nice clear rip off each side of the 2x6 that doesn't have any knots in it.
 
  #11  
Old 10-14-09, 03:56 PM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,112
Received 4 Votes on 4 Posts
HA! xsleeper yer kidding right..? Big cedar in New Jersey? I agree..good choice..but doubt its there.
 
  #12  
Old 10-14-09, 05:56 PM
I
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 67
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks guys.... I will take a shot at it this weekend, and let you know how it goes. Like my name, ithinkicandoit!
 
  #13  
Old 10-14-09, 08:50 PM
L
Member
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Arlington, WA
Posts: 9,238
Received 1 Vote on 1 Post
ithinkicandoit,

I've been following this without putting my 1/4 cents worth in,
but now it's time!

You have the advice that you need, but I want to SEE a picture of the doorknob that sticks out an inch past the door moulding. (I just installed a similar door unit lasy week -- I can't imagine a lockset with THAT big of an exterior handle!!)

XSleeper has the right idea -- big trim. But GG nailed it -- you won't find in on the right coast. Big wood and the mills to handle it are strictly a left coast option!! (You "righties" have a hard time even IMAGINING a 6X8, let alone a 6X18!!)
 
  #14  
Old 10-16-09, 04:39 PM
D
Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Ohio, USA
Posts: 3
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Installing Storm Door

Hello Gents...
You are all on the correct track here. In my experience many door mfg's that built doors with sidelites did not include storm door mullion extensions. For the future purchasers they are available as an option. If you check some local lumber or even big box stores they may have just what you need. It is a "mullion extension kit" which includes the needed jamb extensions for both sides and a piece for the header. Moreover they contain a "toe" piece extension for the threshhold for the bottom "sweep" to seal against. Regarding a Pella door, you may be able to find the extension kit at a local Pella dealer that may be just right for your application. Otherwise a little simple carpentry work will be in order as these gentlemen have suggested.
 
  #15  
Old 10-10-14, 02:32 PM
H
Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 1
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
ithinkicandoit

Have the same situation as ithinkicandoit. If you have pictures of your finished project it would be appreciated. Trying to figure out what to do on the top of the door. Same as your picture. Thanks.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: