I am installing a hollow core door that had to be trimmed down from the standard height. (This is a pocket door and I am trimming from the top since the top is partially concealed by the door frame.)

Sadly, I trimmed a bit too much off the top of the door and the hollow interior is exposed.

First question, is this a problem beyond being ugly if seen?

Second question, if it is a problem, what are the best options short of buying another door and trying again?

Thanks.

 

Take the piece you cut..peel off the skin and clean up the wood core. If you can't salvage the core, you can make one from 2X material on a table saw. Remove any material inside the open top that may interfere...coat the wood core with wood glue and insert into top of door..clamp in place. Predrill the sides and run a finish nail though the sides into the glued core. Countersink the nail heads and putty the holes.

You may have a problem since the hardware mounts to the top of the door, so the attachment of the core needs to be as strong as possible.

 

A table saw is best but I always used a circular saw and rip guide. Use a 2X4 a couple of feet longer then door width to make it easier and safer for your helper to hold. and set the rip guide for the inside thickness. Why can't you turn the door upside down? Even with the lock installed you can flip it side for side usually.

 

I've always liked to rip a new piece to install in the opening - removing the skin and glue from the cut off piece is too much work or am I just lazy

IMO it's best to put the cut off egde at the bottom - your less likely to notice if your cut and reinsertion of the wood is less than perfect.

 

The door has decorative 'window framing' and the top of the door has the smaller frames. It would look upside down if it was hung upside down. (Sad...)

I kept the top and it is in good condition, so I think I will try to salvage the top core and reinsert into the cavity in the door.

If it comes out crappy, I guess I will just have to suck it up and buy another one. If it turns out that salvaging the top core is too much work...I'll get lazy. Beer 4U2

Thanks.

 

Kinda wondered about that....just for info..that would be considered a "paneled or raised panel" door. Depending on how many actual panels..it could be a 6 panel, 4 panel..arch top 3 panel, arch top 2 panel...etc etc. As opposed to a "flat" door.

You should be able to make it usable...

One problem with reusing the piece is that many makers have started using MDF on the edges..not as easy to peel the skins as real wood. Normally a painters tool or a wide chisel will peel it right off. Easier than having to set up a table saw for a 1 cut job on site.

Prob your first door trim? No biggie...always happens. Hope you scored the skins before cutting? Helps to prevent splintering.

 

Ignis,

Try to salvage what you have first. But if that doesn't work, post back and I'll tell you how to cut the bottom of the door with a Skilsaw, and it won't look like a hack job. (A very simple guide.)

 

When I was learning you had an inch and a half rail height on both ends. First door I ran into with only an inch rail caused a very nasty surprise and lots of words I learned in the Navy. I still think the idea of 1 inch rails is stupid. With thick carpet and allowance for central AC air flow you often need to cut off one inch or more..

 

Hi, Use wood for the top. MDF will not hold the screws for the hardware in about a year you will have to take the door down and repair. For information the repair I do is drill out the screw holes and glue in a 3/8 dowel and reinstall the screws in the wood dowel.
Good Luck Woodbutcher

 

So, woodbutcher, even if i just go out and buy another door, you think I should cut off the top of the door and use wood as the core at the top?

I was able to get out the stock core from the 'skin' of the door. It is not solid wood going across the top though it is solid wood going up and down the sides. (I assume it is MDF going across the top.) It actually was pretty easy to get the skin off. I knocked it off with a hammer and screwdriver and filed the edges clean. I then cut off the cardboard support running up the middle of the door to allow for the core to slide into the cavity. This was actually the hardest part due to it being inside the door. Once I had it trimmed close, I used a file to take off the last bit I wanted to make room for the core.

I was going to reinsert the original core today, but I am holding off to get some replies. (I have plenty of crap to do down there...) I don't want to hang these doors just to repair them next year. (I have two pocket doors I am going to be replacing.) Repairing them means taking down the framing around the door.

A second problem I noticed. The hardware to hang the door has one screw that will catch the core and one screw that is below the core. The core being an inch thick. So, even with the entire core left there, only one screw on each 'hanger' will catch on something besides the skin of the door. From what has already been said about the original core not holding the screws for the hardware, I assume that this is even more of a problem?

I may have to trash these doors and get 'flat' doors so I can hang them from the bottom where there is more core. I am going to examine very closely the doors that were hanging there with no problem...maybe have an autopsy...see what those doors can tell me...

Edit: Examination completed. The doors that I am removing had a thicker core at the top and both screws caught the core. I guess they are from the time when the core went deeper than just an inch. But, this gives me some hope that I do not have to replace the stock core with a piece of lumber. ??

Suggestions on any of this?

Thanks.

Edit: In case this helps with my suggestions or with anyone that finds this in the hopes of solving their problem.

What the interior of the door looks like from top down view:


The above image is after I have cut out the cardboard support that runs up the middle of the door.

What the top core or rail of the door looks like when separated from door skin:


The skin is the two pieces on either side of the core.

The depth of the top core or rail of the door and the depth of the pocket door hanger:


The two divets above the screw hole are meant to sit on top of the door and be a guide for placement of the hanger. So, the door would not sit any higher on the hanger than pictured.

 

Hello, When I installed new bypass or pocket doors I learned to drill out the Mdf 3/8, glue in a 3/8 dowel where the screws are and put the screws in the wood. New doors have MDF rails and screws will let loose, a glued in dowel is more secure.
Good Luck Woodbutcher

 

Ok, so I will attempt to remove the core from the door that still has it and replace it with actual wood. Since it has no core, I will replace with a piece of wood rather than just a dowel because the dowel would just be free floating, not surrounded with MDF. (woodbutcher, if I understood your suggestion, you insert the dowel into the MDF, right? It doesn't seem like inserting the dowel into the hollow part would be as sturdy?)

If I manage to do that and it works, I will remove the core from the other door that still has half of it and try the same thing.

Thanks everyone for your help. My renovation project is coming along...slowly...but progress is being made.