Hello,

Ive recently re-hung a severely crooked door, now im having gap problems between the brickmould and the wall sheathing.

Before i re-hung the door, there was no gap on the strike plate, there was around 1/2 gap between the top right (strike) side of the door and the head jamb. Of course the door leaked like a sieve Water was even coming in between the top of the door and the head jamb.

The door, originally was mounted flush to the exterior of the house. THe exterior wall is not plumb. I think this caused some of the leakage problems as the water would lay on top of the door and run inside.

I now have the door hung correctly. Its plumb on all sides. Brickmould is plumb too.

Checking the door jambs with a square shows that the head and side jambs are perpendicular.

Gap around the door is 1/8 to 3/16. Some spots on the hinges side may be 1/4

The door is a fiberglass, Out swing, vinyl clad, pre hung.

Now heres my problem. Due to the exterior walls being out of plumb i have around a 3/8-1/2 gap at the top of the door between the brickmould and the wall.

This gap tapers down the sides till you get to the threshold where the BM is tight to the exterior wall.

If i could remove the BM, i could just plane the jambs down flush and reinstall, but due to the vinyl cladding i cant.

The door is surrounded by 1x6 painted pine trim.

The exterior wall is 1x6 board and batton.

Whats the best method for trimming out the exterior of the door? SHould i cut some tapered strips to fill the gap between the BM and the exterior wall? What about sealing the BM to the wall? Would Blueskin be a good solution?

I dont like how the BM sticks out past the trim a different amount from top to bottom. But i dont think theres alot i can do there.

Thanks for any and all advice.

 

You're probably right, in that there is not much you can do about the stick out. Your wall is out of plumb, so you are stuck. Glad you set the door correctly. Now we have to deal with the eye candy.
If you have the equipment (table saw and tapering jig) or can borrow the use of one, you can just make an auxiliary strip to surround the door brick mold with a slight relief back from the front, giving the illusion of "straightness". And you can remove the brick mold, provided the door casing is fastened to the side framing. This would allow you to cut and plane the BM to fit the odd taper.

 

Thanks chandler.

On this door i dont believe the BM is removable. The cladding appears to be one piece from the inside of the jamb all the ways around the BM.

Im going to taper a spacer to fill the gap behind the BM so i can solidly screw it to the face of the wall.

the fact that it protrudes more on the top, i guess ill have to live with.

 

At least you got the door in RIGHT and it won't swing by itself.

 

Got it installed. Cut tapered shims to fill in the BM< gap.

Flashed it with Blueskin.

Installed new 1x6 for trim.

After painting the trim white to match the door, the BM being further away at the top isnt that noticeable.

Thanks for all assistance.