The double-sided waterproof tape that was originally supporting the drip rail gave out after about 10 years. I went to Home Depot, and they recommended the following product:

DAP Products - Caulks and Sealants - DAP® KWIK SEAL PLUS® Premium Kitchen & Bath Adhesive Caulk w/MICROBAN®

I asked about the stated 7-14 day dry time. The rep assured me he had used the product many times, and it should not take more than a couple of days to dry. I attached the adhesive and clamped the rail. I also caulked along the top of the rail to prevent water from reaching the bonded materials. I let it the whole thing dry for 3 days before taking a shower. It lasted for about 5 days before the rail fell off.

I revisted HD and they recommended this product:

DAP Products - Silicone Sealants - DAP® 3.0 Advanced Kitchen & Bath Adhesive Caulk

I am willing to give it a shot, but I am concerned it will not be a strong enough adhesive. Also, it costs $8, and I'll use about 1/100th of the product. Fortunately the dry time is not nearly as long as the previous product.

I thought about liquid nails, but the shower door is fiberglass, and I don't want to damage it.

Would using an inexpensive waterproof adhesive and caulking along the top of the rail, work just as good, if not better, at a fraction of the cost?

Thanks,
pimy

 

The drip caps that I installed on shower doors were screwed on with 4 s/s screws in slotted holes to allow for adjustment. This is the only sure way but be careful to keep the screws away from the glass. If you must attach it without screws, clean both surfaces perfectly so that they are free of dirt and soap and dry thoroughly. Wipe the surfaces with alcohol. Double sided foam tape is good but must be a good quality (3M). Clear silicone sealant is also excellent and will take 24 hours to dry.

 

Thanks johnam. I like the idea of using screws, but I am not sure how far the glass extends into the frame. I don't want to risk cracking it.

HD was selling that 3M double-sided tape for about $4-5 I think, but I was concerned with the thickness. I didn't want a big gap between the rail and door.

I think I will use the silicone sealant.

Now the fun of scraping off the caulk begins.

Thanks,
pimy

 

I used the sealant I mentioned in my previous post. I have not had any trouble with the drip rail since. Thanks.

 

Thanks for letting us know.