pocket door updating


  #1  
Old 03-17-10, 11:17 AM
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pocket door updating

Hello all. I've been steadily replacing all of the old trim and doors in our house with stained oak and 6-panel doors. The old doors are slab hollow-core. I'm finally getting to the first of a handful of pocket doors that I have. This one is between the kitchen and the dining room. At the very least I will replace it with a solid oak 6-panel door, but I'm also thinking about a door with glass in it to jazz it up a bit and let light through when it's closed (which isn't very much actually). I'm thinking that I should order a door with no pre-cuts (unless I can order one pre-cut for pocket door hardware), trim it to be the same size as the old one if I have to, then mount the hangers and reinstall it. Does that sound about right? Will the extra weight of the new door make a difference with the mounting hardware? Should I look for beefier hardware to replace it? The rail looks like pretty stout steel. It's the brackets I'm not sure about.
 
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Old 03-17-10, 03:35 PM
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Croc, not sure what hardware you have, but most will handle a solid door. I prefer the three wheel trolleys, and I believe they are Johnson. I doubt you will be fortunate to find a door with a precut area for the lockset. It is usually done on site. You would order a "blank" and do the work yourself. The locksets have a template so it's not too bad.
 
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Old 03-17-10, 04:03 PM
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Johnson, USA made versions that is, make the best pocket door hardware. There are not pocket doors that are not custom, every one is different. Sligthly shorter/taller, wider/narrower, etc., no precuts.
 
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Old 03-17-10, 06:56 PM
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Sounds pretty much like I figured. I'll get the practice on this first one so I'll be an expert when I get to the other ones. It can't be too bad can it? ; )
 
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Old 03-17-10, 07:25 PM
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Just make sure you follow the measurements and/or template exactly so your slot won't be too big for the lock flange. Been there.
 
 

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