Replace bsmt double window with double doors
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Replace bsmt double window with double doors
Hi all,
I am in the process of doing a small basement project that involves removing an existing double window and replacing with double doors (prehung if possible).
I'm getting mixed signals from various 'experts' at the big box stores and wanted some input from the experts here.
The home is new, window install done with exterior flange under hardyplank. The framing job is excellent, ready for windows or doors. Measured from side to side of existing framing is 65 inches, header to floor is 80 inches.
Two questions:
1) Can prehung doubles be ordered in the standard size of 32 inch and installed with 1 inch remaining for the jam? Or is that cutting it too close and a smaller door set should be ordered (custom?)?
2) The window flange is 2 inches behind the exterior board but I don't want to cut the hardyplank to remove. Is it possible to just rip it with a reciprocating saw since the window will be discarded or is the appropriate technique to remove the siding and reinstall once the window is removed?
Thanks for your time,
Sean
I am in the process of doing a small basement project that involves removing an existing double window and replacing with double doors (prehung if possible).
I'm getting mixed signals from various 'experts' at the big box stores and wanted some input from the experts here.
The home is new, window install done with exterior flange under hardyplank. The framing job is excellent, ready for windows or doors. Measured from side to side of existing framing is 65 inches, header to floor is 80 inches.
Two questions:
1) Can prehung doubles be ordered in the standard size of 32 inch and installed with 1 inch remaining for the jam? Or is that cutting it too close and a smaller door set should be ordered (custom?)?
2) The window flange is 2 inches behind the exterior board but I don't want to cut the hardyplank to remove. Is it possible to just rip it with a reciprocating saw since the window will be discarded or is the appropriate technique to remove the siding and reinstall once the window is removed?
Thanks for your time,
Sean
#2
SeanC,
Welcome to the forums.
Your choices are limited by that "header to the floor is 80".
You are looking at doors that can't be more than 78" tall, and the selection in that group is VERY limited. Framing at "65" side-to-side" means that you are looking at doors that are 5' wide. That will limit you as well.
Whatever you do is going to be custom made, and for that, the LAST place I would go is a 'big box store. Go see a local door and window co. -- It won't be cheap, but they will save you hundreds!!
Welcome to the forums.
Your choices are limited by that "header to the floor is 80".
You are looking at doors that can't be more than 78" tall, and the selection in that group is VERY limited. Framing at "65" side-to-side" means that you are looking at doors that are 5' wide. That will limit you as well.
Whatever you do is going to be custom made, and for that, the LAST place I would go is a 'big box store. Go see a local door and window co. -- It won't be cheap, but they will save you hundreds!!
#3
When you say it's 80" to the "floor" are you talking about the cement floor, or to the surface of the finish floor inside, such as tile or carpet or what have you? Your door will likely sit on the cement, and any finish flooring will butt up to the door. So there may be some height there you aren't accounting for... possibly.
Andersen, and many other mfg's make gliding patio doors and hinged patio doors that are 79 1/2", made for 80" openings. I'm not sure why lefty is saying you will have trouble... I can't see an issue. Maybe it's not something that's common on the left coast. But here in the midwest you see 80" openings almost as much as you see ones that are 82-83".
And I agree with lefty that a 5 ft door would be your best bet if you want to avoid removing the siding. You'll need to frame in an equal amount on each side to make the RO a little smaller.
Andersen is the catalog I have open at the moment, they also have 5-4 doors which are for 64" rough openings. But you'd need to cut the siding back a little on each side for the nailing flange, then apply trim around the door. Not a big deal.
You will probably find a few other brands that offer something similar.
Andersen, and many other mfg's make gliding patio doors and hinged patio doors that are 79 1/2", made for 80" openings. I'm not sure why lefty is saying you will have trouble... I can't see an issue. Maybe it's not something that's common on the left coast. But here in the midwest you see 80" openings almost as much as you see ones that are 82-83".
And I agree with lefty that a 5 ft door would be your best bet if you want to avoid removing the siding. You'll need to frame in an equal amount on each side to make the RO a little smaller.
Andersen is the catalog I have open at the moment, they also have 5-4 doors which are for 64" rough openings. But you'd need to cut the siding back a little on each side for the nailing flange, then apply trim around the door. Not a big deal.
You will probably find a few other brands that offer something similar.
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Thank you for the replies!
The 80" is from header to foundation/poured slab, not the floor plate. I should have been more explicit in my description. I was also under the impression that 80" was almost standard in our area.
My concern is the 65" width and actual removal of the window itself since the flange extends almost 2 inches under the siding. From what I am reading it, sounds like I can do the job either way - it just may take some creative trim work depending on the size I choose. This should not be a problem, but I just want to make sure I have all of my ducks in a row before I start the removal process.
The 80" is from header to foundation/poured slab, not the floor plate. I should have been more explicit in my description. I was also under the impression that 80" was almost standard in our area.
My concern is the 65" width and actual removal of the window itself since the flange extends almost 2 inches under the siding. From what I am reading it, sounds like I can do the job either way - it just may take some creative trim work depending on the size I choose. This should not be a problem, but I just want to make sure I have all of my ducks in a row before I start the removal process.
#5
I forgot to reply to the window removal part. Yes, you can just cut the nailing fin off... use a thin reciprocating blade, like for metal. Milwaukee Torch blades are the best for metal cutting.