I am replacing my "hopper" style basement windows with new vinyl units and I have a few questions. I had finished off the basement years ago and covered up some access to the window frame on the inside with drywall (see picture). My first question is can I install the window from the outside and avoid the drywall rework? There is a metal plate at the top for the outside stone veneer support (see picture). I have one window that is not dry walled in (see picture). My second question is how do I construct a new mortar wash assuming I need to remove the old one? The cinder blocks are open on the top. How do I keep the mortar from falling in? Mesh? Can I avoid mortar any other material to use? The last question is when doing the mortar wash is the window set into the mortar at the bottom? Trying to get an idea of what I need material wise before I start tearing them out and become committed. I apologize I was unable to find the picture album link in my User Panel so I can upload the images. Help.

 

Hi mlucey, welcome. When composing a message there is an icon you can click to insert pictures. However you first have to upload the picture onto the internet, either to a file sharing website, or a website of your own. Then you can link to the pictures. You can't just link to a picture that is on your computer or cut and paste.

To answer some of your questions, there are probably several ways to go about it. You can install from the outside. You "can" leave the drywall, but in order to seal up the window the best, you might want to remove the drywall. Your new window will probably also be a lot thicker than your old one, so you may end up removing the old window, then you'd be attempting to cut out about 2" of drywall around the perimeter which isn't as easy as it sounds.

With basement windows, it's usually best to have a completely clean masonry opening, install the window, insulate around the perimeter of the window, then caulk both sides to the masonry opening, then finish the interior and exterior as desired. With drywall on one side, you will have to insulate from the exterior side, and you won't be able to caulk the interior to the masonry, which "might" cause some problems with air/moisture infiltration.

If your cement blocks on bottom are open, you will need to pour a sloped cement cap. This is best done using a portland cement mix. It's cheap and you can mix what you need by hand in a 5 gallon bucket. You can either tear out the window, board it up from the inside, make the cap, wait for it to cure, then install the window... or you can tear out the old window, install the new one, then mortar up to the bottom of the new window with your cap. It's up to you. One thing you'll have to do regardless is wait for the cement to cure before you can caulk the new window to the new cement cap. (caulk doesn't stick well to green cement) To fill the void in the block some ppl will stuff them with newspaper, or fiberglass, or fill them with expanding foam. Whatever method you choose, it just needs to be packed tight so as to hold your fresh mortar (which will be kind of heavy.)

 

XSleeper - Any recommendations on a file sharing website to post the pictures on?

I was concerned about sealing the inside as well. I suspected I would have to remove the drywall. I thought about removing a 2 to 3 inch section as well, but probably easier to clear the whole opening.

The new window is slightly smaller and slightly thinner, but not enough to make a difference in regards to the drywall.

The window has nail fins on the ends and the bottom. It also has two screw holes in the top of the frame (header holes). The install instructions are brief, but say to install two screws into the header holes, strip the sash block fin (utility knife) and apply mortar wash between the bottom of the window and the top of the block. Is this really enough to hold the window in place? I assume the window is sunk into the mortar wash correct?

 

I use photobucket, some others use Picasa web album. There is also Flickr, I think.

As for attaching the window, I prefer to have 4 screws through the frame, 2 on left, 2 on right, nothing on top. You are probably right though about the mortar holding the bottom of the window, especially if the bottom fin is sliced to the right height, then mortared in on both sides.

 

Thanks for the help XSleeper. I will let you know how it goes. I am starting the project this coming weekend.

 

Sounds good, I'll look for your reply. For screws into masonry, I like 1/4" tapcons with a hex head. A tapcon is a cement screw. To figure out the length of the screw, you want the screw to go into about 1" of concrete, so you might want a 2 1/4" to anchor a window, depending on the thickness of the frame and the gap between the window and the cement. You'd want to shim the frame where you place screws so as not to bow out the frame when you tighten the screw.

For the perimeter of the window, I like using Dow Latex foam. It's not quite as messy as the Great Stuff, and it gets into tighter cracks.

Good luck!

 

I have 8 out 9 windows replaced. The process was pretty easy once I got going. I used a sawzall to remove the old wooden window frames, a 3" mortar chisel to remove the outside mortar wash and I was in business. I ended up shimming and using flat head screw tapcons from the sides of the vinyl window frame (4 places) to secure the frame to the cinder block. I leveled and plumbed everything, added the mortar wash on the outside of the window and patched in the mortar wash on the inside as the new vinyl window frames were narrower than the old wooden ones. I then carefully removed the shims and used low expansion foam (Great Stuff) to seal in the frame (3 sides) to the cinder block. I used a 1/4" gap on the top of the window frame to the steel support angle/header for my stone siding to allow for any expansion differences. Next up repair and finish the inside drywall.

 

Nice job. I'll give you two thumbs up!

 

Thanks for the help XSleeper. It made the project a little easier to tackle, not to mention faster to complete.