Solid Wood Door Repair / Lengthening...
#1
08-01-10, 08:55 AM
Solid Wood Door Repair / Lengthening...
After recently leveling our house on a new foundation, the solid wood front door no longer fits the frame. Over the years, it apparently has been planed down and now sits with an angled gap at the top and bottom, with something short of a 1" gap when comparing the left side vs. the right side.
Our designer tells us that in Europe, it's common to see solid wood doors that have rotted out near the bottom, patched with a darker wood at the bottom to avoid replacing the whole door. Sometimes in a large sawtooth pattern, though I'd prefer a straight cut.
I'm not opposed to this solution, but am having trouble finding any reference to door repairs similar to this on the web. Is this as simple as a tongue and groove repair, so something more complicated? Anybody have any reference links they can share that might provide guidance?
Our designer tells us that in Europe, it's common to see solid wood doors that have rotted out near the bottom, patched with a darker wood at the bottom to avoid replacing the whole door. Sometimes in a large sawtooth pattern, though I'd prefer a straight cut.
I'm not opposed to this solution, but am having trouble finding any reference to door repairs similar to this on the web. Is this as simple as a tongue and groove repair, so something more complicated? Anybody have any reference links they can share that might provide guidance?
#2
08-01-10, 09:30 AM
Super Moderator
I wouldn't have a problem repairing it...though the sawtooth pattern would be pretty ugly I think. I'd drill it and glue and dowel the replacement in using polyurethane glue. Or if it won't be more than an inch or so of added material, glue and stainless steel screws. Oh...and a slight downward pitch on the joint from interior to exterior.
Oh...is it painted or stained? Painted..no problem...stained..you'll probably never get an exact match. I guess a nice kickplate would conceal any issues though.
Oh...is it painted or stained? Painted..no problem...stained..you'll probably never get an exact match. I guess a nice kickplate would conceal any issues though.
#3
08-01-10, 09:52 AM
Kickplate was one option, but I don't like it. Don't like the sawtooth, either, but wonder if the straight cut is enough to stand on its own and withstand the abuses of a front door.
Although the gap is only an inch, I was thinking I might need to do as much as 10" to make it look "right." Unless i really try for a color match, but I don't think I have much hope there. I'd love to paint it, but the powers that be want it sanded and stained. Too much work, says I. So what, says they! Hence, a purposely dark wood.
Although the gap is only an inch, I was thinking I might need to do as much as 10" to make it look "right." Unless i really try for a color match, but I don't think I have much hope there. I'd love to paint it, but the powers that be want it sanded and stained. Too much work, says I. So what, says they! Hence, a purposely dark wood.
#4
08-01-10, 10:20 AM
Member
Assuming the jamb is now straight I would cut off whatever was necessary from the top and bottom to return the door to square. From there you can glue and screw filler strips. You could tongue and groove or groove and spline the repair but with modern glues I don't think it's necessary.
#6
08-03-10, 12:23 AM
Originally Posted by drooplug
Can you take a picture of the door so we know what it looks like? That can make a difference on how you can join the two.
I've got it boarded shut but it's just a solid core door, no detail work. What you're looking at will be the interior side, was previously the exterior, but I'm flipping the side the door swings on.
The verticals stayed vertical, but you can see that previous owners have been busy trimming the top over the years to address the house's out-of-level condition.
The threshold plate is off, so the bottom of the door is resting on the exposed subfloor, which is why the gap is so big.
BTW, you can see that I've got some other patchwork to do, mainly aligning the cores for a new handleset.
#7
08-03-10, 03:49 PM
It will be nearly impossible to add to that door and have it not be obvious that you added to the door. Even if the wood and finish was a perfect match in grain and color.
Do you know what the core is made out of? I don't expect the core to be solid wood. So I think the best way is to trim off as little as possible to make sure you retain as much of the solid wood thats on the edge of the door. That will be a better surface to glue to. I would also go for a joint like a tongue and groove to interlock the new with the old.
Do you know what the core is made out of? I don't expect the core to be solid wood. So I think the best way is to trim off as little as possible to make sure you retain as much of the solid wood thats on the edge of the door. That will be a better surface to glue to. I would also go for a joint like a tongue and groove to interlock the new with the old.
#8
08-03-10, 04:00 PM
Super Moderator
I'd have to suggest a replacement if its a particle core...unless its some really odd size. The work you will put into all the repairs you mentioned will probably take more time and money than just installing or having installed a new slab.
If you hunt around a bit you will probably find a nice slab you like...either in wood or possibly fiberglass. Though if you wanted to go with FG...I'd do a frame and all replacement. Even a particle core slab..if under extremely good cover and properly prepared, will last many years...though I wouldn't recommend it.
Honestly, no offence...it doesn't look like all that great a door...unless theres something I can't see.
If you hunt around a bit you will probably find a nice slab you like...either in wood or possibly fiberglass. Though if you wanted to go with FG...I'd do a frame and all replacement. Even a particle core slab..if under extremely good cover and properly prepared, will last many years...though I wouldn't recommend it.
Honestly, no offence...it doesn't look like all that great a door...unless theres something I can't see.
#9
08-04-10, 10:23 AM
Yeah, it's solid through-and-through. Original door from when the house was constructed in 1924. That's why I'm considering the tongue-and-groove repair with the large piece of darker wood at the bottom. If it ends up looking too funky, I'll paint it.
#10
08-04-10, 11:30 AM
Member
I don't see why a repair should look bad. I'm not sure you even have to match the wood. I can't tell the species from the photo, but I have to say at first glance it looked like luan.
I would square the door, repair with a similar grained wood even though the grain will be perpendicular, sand it down and stain it. I think it will come out fine and it will certainly be a lot cheaper than replacing the door.
I would square the door, repair with a similar grained wood even though the grain will be perpendicular, sand it down and stain it. I think it will come out fine and it will certainly be a lot cheaper than replacing the door.
#11
08-04-10, 06:09 PM
Good suggestion. I've got a good hardwood source nearby that I can check with.
Is there any strength benefit to dowling a tongue and groove joint? Or would this be overkill? Or detrimental?
Is there any strength benefit to dowling a tongue and groove joint? Or would this be overkill? Or detrimental?
#12
08-04-10, 06:44 PM
Are there any veneer layers to this door? I don't mean just thin veneers, but anything up to a 1/4" thick. The door on my house (1928) was a solid door but had 5 layers to it. It has deteriorated quite a bit and has suffered a poor repair job.
Anyhow, if it is truly solid lumber all the way through with no veneer layers, you should be wary of attaching a piece of wood that doesn't have its grain in the same direction of the door. That solid wood door is going to expand and contract quite a bit.
Aside from the concerns I mentioned above, I don't think dowels would be necessary for strength unless that add on piece is of considerable width. I think a 1/2" deep tongue approx. 1/3 the total thickness of the door will be adequate. Adding the dowels certainly wouldn't harm anything.
Anyhow, if it is truly solid lumber all the way through with no veneer layers, you should be wary of attaching a piece of wood that doesn't have its grain in the same direction of the door. That solid wood door is going to expand and contract quite a bit.
Aside from the concerns I mentioned above, I don't think dowels would be necessary for strength unless that add on piece is of considerable width. I think a 1/2" deep tongue approx. 1/3 the total thickness of the door will be adequate. Adding the dowels certainly wouldn't harm anything.
#13
08-05-10, 08:26 AM
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I added 2 inches to the top of a door by doweling and glueing it. Had no problems. Unless the door is draging there is no strain on the joint. Instead of trying to match the wood mask it and paint a frame around the entire door. Then she will want them all that way.
#14
08-05-10, 10:50 AM
Looking at the exposed core at the peephole cutout, there appears to be a 1/8" or so veneer skin but the rest appears solid.
Retired Wrench, got a pic of what you're describing? Sounds interesting, but I can't picture it.
Retired Wrench, got a pic of what you're describing? Sounds interesting, but I can't picture it.
