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Modifying a rough opening for new const. Window

Modifying a rough opening for new const. Window


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Old 10-16-10, 11:49 PM
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Modifying a rough opening for new const. Window

So my rough opening (stud to stud) for my new window is 31X56 (+/- 1/8")...the RO size of the Andersen 200 however is 32X57. I figured I could remove the bottom plate and replace it with a 1x4 of PT...but what to do about the horizontal one inch I need??

I've heard about shaving the studs or ripping them...or removing the jack stud from one side and replacing with a 1x4 but does that affect the structural integrity? Or stick to removing 1/2" each side somehow? This is a one floor ranch house, cape style.

I really do not want to have to go to the next size down which would require me to build the opening up by 4" which means adding siding and drywall, paint etc. Nor going with a custom order- just don't have the $ and not staying long term in this house.

Any advice? thanks much.
 
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Old 10-17-10, 04:22 AM
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If you are set on the size of window, you can't just substitute non structural lumber. You will need to either cut the lower jacks and lower the 2x bottom plate for the window, as well as moving your king and jack studs on either side to accommodate the wider window, and at the same time building a longer header that will span the new width over the jack. This will entail modifying your interior wall and outside siding and trim.
A lot of work to do when you could order an exact replacement. Consider the cost of doing the tear out and replacement, versus the replacement window of the size you need.
 
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Old 10-17-10, 05:19 AM
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What's the exact model number of Anderson 200 you are putting in, and is it Narrowline, Tilt-Wash or Casement?
 
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Old 10-17-10, 07:20 AM
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Chandler- yeah, that really is the right way to do it- but thats obviously what I want to avoid. Thanks for keeping me honest.

XSleeper, its the Tilt-Wash, #from HD. I'm really like how it looks. Did consider the 400 series, but it doesnt come with the prepainted white interior (unless I special order it), and does cost more.
 
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Old 10-17-10, 02:41 PM
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ok, from the Andersen catalog, that looks like it would be a 244DH2849... rough opening of 32x57. From the looks of the specifications, this size of rough opening will allow 1/4" of room on each side of the window. So "theoretically" if the rough opening was 31 1/2 x 56 1/2" the window would fit in the RO as tight as a ball-bearing... or would not fit at all if the rough opening was out of square / plumb / level.

Chandler is correct, that the proper way to do it is to enlarge the opening, new header, etc. I can't disagree with that advice.

I have to admit though, that in areas where code enforcement is not as strict, that I have sometimes either shaved the trimmers with a reciprocating saw, or cut them out and replaced them with thinner ones (trimmers are the studs that fit under the header) so that the window will fit. While I wouldn't recommend doing that to a header that was 10ft long, I personally don't think it is too risky to replace the 1 1/2" wide trimmers on narrow windows with ones that are only 1" wide (ripped nicely on a table saw). But in most areas that's a big no-no. In my estimation, a 1" wide trimmer will do the exact same thing as a 1 1/2" wide trimmer when the load upon the trimmer is not that great to begin with. By doing that, I have to accept the risk of any future problems that would develop due to making such a structural alteration.

If you only wanted 1/8" of room on each side of the window rough opening, the trimmers would end up being 1 1/8" wide.
 
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Old 10-20-10, 07:39 PM
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I'm also pondering just going down the next smaller size vertically..which would be 4" less. I would just need to build it up with a couple 2Xs. Not the end of the wordl but I do lose some glass/view space..

Fortunately two large windows I have in my end, I can get stock windows to fit. Just this smaller window I havent decided on.

Thanks for all your input.
 
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Old 10-21-10, 06:48 PM
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I have narrowed down to a Series 400 Window, that matches my horizontal dimension, but is 4" shorter vertically. That's something I'm willing to accept at this point, and it's a window on the far side of a house that does not get a lot of sun to begin with anyway.

Now, would you recommend I build up the 4" from the bottom of the rough opening alone, or splitting it and building down 2" from the header and 2" up from the bottom?

If I had to pick I would rather to re'side one end of the window at the bottom, on the outside wall, than both but let me know if you have better ideas. I have cedar clapboard siding.
 
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Old 10-21-10, 08:33 PM
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Building the bottom up is best since that way it will still line up with the rest of the other windows & doors at the header. For what it's worth, lowering the rough sill is pretty easy if you wanted to go with the one that's roughly the same height. The TW2446 would require a RO 30 1/8 x 56 7/8, meaning you'd need to lower your rough sill about 7/8".
 
 

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