Pan Flashing help please-replacement windows

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Old 11-21-10, 04:51 PM
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Pan Flashing help please-replacement windows

i know products such as flex wrap are used for flashing a sill with new construction..i assume pan flashing means "flashing a sill"?
anyway,what about a replacement window where a window is placed on an existing sill? does that sill need to be flashed? i have seen many guys not flash a sill for replacement windows . one guy says he installs aluminum on the old sill and then "L's it" so it protects the old sill as well as divert water away from the home. opinions?
 
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Old 11-21-10, 05:33 PM
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Generally the tolerances on replacement windows only allow for caulking, and the windows are designed for water runoff toward the outside.
 
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Old 11-21-10, 06:22 PM
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last question:
i noticed when doing an INTERIOR INSTALL,the interior stops are removed.obviously. i notice some guys apply caulking to the inside portion of the exterior stop and then place the window against it. others just place the window against the exterior stops but don't put caulk on that stop. any reason for one way orthe other?
 
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Old 11-21-10, 06:52 PM
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I always put a bead along the inside of the outside molding (does that make sense?), then install the window against the seal. In addition, I will apply a bead around the window to ensure no leak.
 
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Old 11-21-10, 07:31 PM
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"I always put a bead along the inside of the outside molding (does that make sense?)"

yes..but why is it necessary to put caulk there chandler? thats not an area where air can come in...?

also. when you have weight pockets and insulate the wight pocket cavity with insulation,is there any problem leaving the actual steel weight pocket in rather than taking it out? ca it cause problems by just cutting the chain or rope and leaving the pocket in? of course still filling the cavity with batt inulation.
 
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Old 11-21-10, 08:02 PM
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Oh, but it is. It is where the window seals itself. I am talking of the stop molding you "don't" remove and set your window against it.
You can leave the weight in, but it offers no insulation value at all. I would remove them, since you have the window out. Packing insulation offers no insulation, or reduced insulation value, so I would use minimally expaniding foam in the cavity.
 
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Old 11-21-10, 08:24 PM
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you caulk the inside corner of the exterior stop?
with the wight poket cavity,is'nt that alot of foam? how many cans for each side? do you need to drill holes?
 
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Old 11-22-10, 05:47 AM
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As someone who inspects the results of attempts to create site-built pan flashings (which are often prone to failure) I've become a big fan of adjustable pre-fabricated pans such as the JamSill products (disclaimer, I don't sell any type of pan-flashing products):



- The Jamsill Guard® adjustable sill pan flashing

These a thin enough that they will often fit under replacement units, though it will require additional trim work custom to each install to produce a neat appearance.
 
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