extending sill, glue up & fasteners
#1
12-09-10, 08:55 AM
Extending Jambs
putting 1" rigid foam insulation on the exterior and needed to extend the window trim & sills. had some recycled clear doug fir 1x3 sanded 4 sides in the garage. used the power plane to prep the sills (came out real smooth & all solid & dry sills). used titebond III to glue them up and lacking a good clamping method I set them with 2" galvanized deck screws. they pulled on really tight and everything looks good. QUESTION: would it be better to pull those screws out now that the glue is doing its job and fill with a wood filler that will really bond to the wood rather than trying to get a filler to adhere to the galvanized screw heads & wood? I thought the 3/4" 1x stock was a little thin for countersinking & wooden plugs. ALSO, whats the best filler now that the weather is colder? thanks
#2
12-09-10, 10:08 AM
Super Moderator
Hmmmm...though what you did sounds good, normally they are just nailed on with a finish nailer or hand nailed with galv finish nails. Our installers never even used glue since the frames they were adding to were normally painted.
The covered up screw heads might be a problem when installing trim later. I'd probably remove the screws, fill the holes (if they will be exposed after trim, otherwise just prime the wood) add some nails.
Not sure on the filler.
The covered up screw heads might be a problem when installing trim later. I'd probably remove the screws, fill the holes (if they will be exposed after trim, otherwise just prime the wood) add some nails.
Not sure on the filler.
#4
12-11-10, 07:40 PM
no problem, thanks for the reply. since these sills are gonna see a lot of rain I thought it was a good idea to glue them up. the windows are at least 40 years old and maybe more, I was glad to see all the wood in real good shape after planing. I would have just shot them on with a nail gun but it was raining that day and didnt want to drag all the equipment out in the weather. I think the glue will hold them together really well, I bet now that they are cured fasteners aren't necessary. It will probably make a good test case, as the materials cost was minimal and I can always plane them down and do them over if they start to fail.
thanks again,
thanks again,
#5
12-12-10, 05:51 PM
A biscuit joiner works well also, if you have any problems later, or dowels. Be sure to add a relief cut for a drip edge on the bottom, or even two, to stop wind-blown water. Do you have a good head flashing plan?
Use some backer rod before the caulking to get the premium expandable bond.
Gary
Use some backer rod before the caulking to get the premium expandable bond.
Gary
