hey guys,

I am having a basement window installed and have a couple of different quotes that vary significantly on the work needed to be performed.

the job is to install a new basement window into a cinder block wall at the back of the house. the floor joists run front to back. window will be below grade.

1st contractor says you just knock a hole out with a hammer big enough to fit the window, put it in place and insulate it. recoords 24" length x 48 height window

2nd contractor says you have to rip out the metal stud wall and install a 2x6 load bearing wall, cut out the hole, install a steel lintil above the window then put the window in. the cost from the 1st contractor is only 150 bucks plus the window, the 2nd contractor i'm waiting on a price from but i'm guessing it's going to be a heck of a lot more. recommends 48" wide x 24" window, says a 48" high window wont look right in a basement and is a lot more digging since basically all of the window is below grade.

Is it really necessary to do the extras that the 2nd contractor wants to do? I think by having 2 quotes i've confused myself more then I was to begin with!

 

Skip the first guy completely and don't let him do any work for you or anyone you know.

The second guy might be going a little overboard. IMO, you could easily support the structure for the short time the work will take by using jacks. A properly installed lintel should transfer the load to the sides, so whats the point of a permanent(?) load bearing wall?

He might be right about the window size....48 below grade is going to involve excavation, putting in the window well, drainage, etc...and could even compromise the foundation.

Is this for egress? There's even more to consider if it is.

No Pro....but I know some. The Pro's will be around.

 

yes it is for egress which is the problem of the 24x48 as its more then 44 inches off the floor. 2nd guy was suggesting building in a toy box for a bit extra, with a cushion on top. So it would be a place to sit, storrage and a way to get to the window to get out in a fire. He's new to the area so double checking if that meets code right now, where he was from he said it did as long as it was built in.

the worst thing is that the 1st guy already put in a window for us in the basement. We have had no problems of it leaking, and it's on the opposite wall so it does not have floor joists directly above it. However it has a major draft all around the top that I never noticed until the 2nd contractor pointed it out.

 

Both guys are a little bit off. I won't even comment on the first guy. And anyone who would suggest a 48" wide window that is 24" tall for a fire escape is not quite right, IMO. The maximum height off the floor cannot be exceeded, so that's a given. The toybox idea is just dumb. If you can get the 2nd guy to put in the 24x48 window at the right height, with the proper window well outside, I'd probably go with him if you're not getting a 3rd estimate. The best way to prep the temporarily supported masonry opening would be to "tooth out" the blocks on the sides and replace with end cap blocks so that you'd have a nice smooth rough opening to install the window inside.

Keep in mind that anyone can beat a hole in a wall and put a window in it. But doing things right is going to cost more.

 

well what the 2nd guy is saying that the max height from the floor is 44" but if you build the floor up it should be ok but he's checking wtih local permits first? which I guess is a good thing instead of just doing it

I've got in touch with someone else for a 3rd estimate I think and then go from there. The majority of the basement i'm doing i just dont feel comfortable putting a hole in my house lol.

 

The 44" is not the absolute requirement everywhere. There are some jurisdictions that are 42" maximum height, so check you local code if you want the space to be included in the livable area when you go to sell and the buyers have it appraised for market value. I have seen where the inspector would not measure from a bare unfinished floor and wanted a finished surface.

Dick

 

I'm pretty sure that if you build the floor up, it has to be permanent, not movable (like a toybox would be).

 

And, to expand on what Xsleeper said, building the floor UP to get to the required egress height is all well and good. But check into that option FARTHER -- the "floor" may have to extend at least 36" in front of the window for the bldg. dept. to buy it. They'll treat it like the landing outside of a door!!

MAKE SURE all of the details are covered before you jump into THIS project!!

 

Thanks guys! This was supposed to be the easy part where I just hand my money over to someone and get it done lol. It looks like it might be the most stressful part of the entire renovation! I've got another guy to call for a 3rd quote so I will see how that goes.

 

Yeah, the EASY part is to write the check. The stressful part is dealing with the bldg. dept. after the contractor has done the work, taken the check, and DISAPPEARED!!

The good guys may or may not ask for a down payment depending on the job, might need progress payments along the way -- again, depending on the job -- but WON'T take final payment until you AND the bldg. dept. are satisfied.

All that should be spelled out in the contract.

You may pay a bit more for them, but THAT'S a good guy!!

 

Just a minor detail, but one that will save in the long run.....have the window on site before the deconstruction begins. Sometimes working off printed RO's is good, sometimes it doesn't work. Having it there eliminates that problem.

 

Just to add to chandlers comment, make sure there is an "egress approved" sticker on the window for the inspector to see - it eliminates any questions.

 

Well I got the first guy to explain more what exactly he is doing. it seems he was just giving me the quick answer that most people want to hear. He does tie it into the floor joists, put in a header, etc.

Because we've used him before to do the exact same project plus a lot of other work I think I am going to go with him. He looked at the first window he did and added some spray foam and the draft went away so it seems fine now.

Can't wait for it to warm up and get the window out of the way so I can get the basement work going!

 

One more question since you seem to have decided....what kind of window? Casement?

 

I am not sure he is providing the window because he can get a better price then I can. I know it's a good one though, jeld wen, double hung 24x48

 

Double hung 24 x 48 window does NOT meet egress requirements!

Need minimum of Clear Openable Area of 5.7 sq. ft., minimum Clear Openable Width of 20" and minimum Clear Openable Height of 24".

The Anderson chart here is an easy reference. http://www.andersenwindows.com/servl...&ssbinary=true

The ones with the little diamond meet egress. No 48" tall DH will meet it and in a 24" wide it would need to be at least 86" tall. Time for a rethink.

 

looks like 31x56 is what i need to go with to be legal. That's a huge window for a basement. it's going to be almost to the floor we only have about 7 feet to the joist.

Would I be better off with a single hung or does it make any difference? The bigger window isn't a big deal it wont be much more money it's just going to look stupid

 

Single hung won't make any difference. What about a casement? Wherever it's ordered from should easily be able to help choose a size that will work.

 

I second Vic's recommendation for a casement window. It won't be so huge and will let in a good amount of fresh air and also be compliant for egress.