How to remove wood framed window bonded by liquid nail?
#1
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How to remove wood framed window bonded by liquid nail?
We are working on a project to replace most of the windows in a custom home. These windows are double-glazed and wood-framed. Reason for the replacement is condensation between the window panes. We have found to our dismay that the builder, or whoever, had installed these windows to the wood frame with liquid nail. It is near impossible to remove the outside wood stoppers without damaging them. It is but impossible to get the old windows out of their wood frames the traditional way. There has to be a method of softening the liquid nail which is bonding the window to its frame prior to removing the glass. What is the best chemical solution to use? We need something that is liquid enough to penetrate inside the frame. We believe this problem has been dealt with before. Any pointers? Thank you in advance for your help.
#2
You aren't going to find any easy way to get the adhesive off. Are you just replacing the glass, or tearing out the whole window frame and everything? If you're tearing out out the whole window frame, I'd cut it out in pieces with a reciprocating saw.
If you are just trying to remove an interior wood glazing stop so that you can get the insulating glass unit (IGU) out, it's pretty common for them to be glued to the glass (in the factory) with a very sticky glazing compound. A heat gun will sometimes soften the glazing enough to remove the glazing stop, but it also reactivates the stuff and makes it even stickier than before. Those glazing stops will also often break, so be prepared to either order new ones or make new ones.
So it just depends what you're doing. Keep in mind that when you use the generic term "window" it doesn't tell us much about what you're doing. When you say you're replacing the window to most of us, that means the ENTIRE window... glass, sash, frame and all.
If you are just trying to remove an interior wood glazing stop so that you can get the insulating glass unit (IGU) out, it's pretty common for them to be glued to the glass (in the factory) with a very sticky glazing compound. A heat gun will sometimes soften the glazing enough to remove the glazing stop, but it also reactivates the stuff and makes it even stickier than before. Those glazing stops will also often break, so be prepared to either order new ones or make new ones.
So it just depends what you're doing. Keep in mind that when you use the generic term "window" it doesn't tell us much about what you're doing. When you say you're replacing the window to most of us, that means the ENTIRE window... glass, sash, frame and all.
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Thank you for responding. Our task is to replace the glass of the windows. They are double-glazed and wood-framed into the window openings. Quite a few of them are large arch windows.
#4
I like XSleeper’s “I'd cut it out in pieces with a reciprocating saw
” approach. Especially if your glass is liquid nailed to the outside wood stops 30 feet above ground (my situation).
1. Make sure you “X” Masking Tape the glass first before doing anything.
2. Brace the frame/trim to be cut out from floor or tie off from above.
3. Hack, [XSleeper
], carefully with the reciprocating say.
4. Then remove the glass, stops and any remaining trim so that it all lays flat on the floor - use leveling blocking if need be on a solid floor or on a few sheets of 3/4” plywood. Do it in a way that won’t allow the wood stops, trim and glass to deflect. The cut away of stops and trim may come off in an odd shape [try to plumb and level cut as best as possible] and the floor may be is springy – I learned about braking glass on a spongy floor the hard way when trying to cut glass and I knew better.
Finally go to: "How To Remove LIQUID NAILS Adhesive From Building Materials" a FAQ by AkzoNobel Paints LLC: FAQ - LIQUID NAILS Adhesive Removal and More
Then Click on link: Removing LIQUID NAILS Adhesive
Good Luck...

1. Make sure you “X” Masking Tape the glass first before doing anything.
2. Brace the frame/trim to be cut out from floor or tie off from above.
3. Hack, [XSleeper

4. Then remove the glass, stops and any remaining trim so that it all lays flat on the floor - use leveling blocking if need be on a solid floor or on a few sheets of 3/4” plywood. Do it in a way that won’t allow the wood stops, trim and glass to deflect. The cut away of stops and trim may come off in an odd shape [try to plumb and level cut as best as possible] and the floor may be is springy – I learned about braking glass on a spongy floor the hard way when trying to cut glass and I knew better.
Finally go to: "How To Remove LIQUID NAILS Adhesive From Building Materials" a FAQ by AkzoNobel Paints LLC: FAQ - LIQUID NAILS Adhesive Removal and More
Then Click on link: Removing LIQUID NAILS Adhesive
Good Luck...
#5
Further, one might also get an all purpose hand tool to cut away the wood from the glass. Rigid makes a fine tool - Maximum Multi -Tool...it comes with a handy adapter that can handle blades from other all purpose cutting tool companies. I would use their rounded Blade.
I then would lay the wood stop edge against a scrap piece of wood along a wall and cut away the wood stop, along the wood-stop side of the liquid nailed joint. Tape a 1/8” thick by 2” inch wide strip of plastic laminate to protect the glass and allow the blade to get between the stop and the liquid nails. When done, scrape away the adhesive with a razor blade scraper...
again, good luck...
I then would lay the wood stop edge against a scrap piece of wood along a wall and cut away the wood stop, along the wood-stop side of the liquid nailed joint. Tape a 1/8” thick by 2” inch wide strip of plastic laminate to protect the glass and allow the blade to get between the stop and the liquid nails. When done, scrape away the adhesive with a razor blade scraper...
again, good luck...
#6

Prelim Liquid Nails Removal
:
http://i610.photobucket.com/albums/t...awsAllTrim.jpg
Once Glass & Stops are removed, Cut Stop away by placing flat on solid floor against scrap wood strip along a wall. As you cut, place finish nails between wood and glass, the Liquid Nails will try to reattach itself. The Plastic Laminate will protect the glass . That is if the saw Blade is kept on the wood side of the Liquid Nails :
http://i610.photobucket.com/albums/tt190/Mccc/A2.jpg
This is very tedious, if it is too much work, Just fork out a hundred bucks or more for new glass
.
½ Plate Glass $3 to $5 Price (per square foot)

http://i610.photobucket.com/albums/t...awsAllTrim.jpg
Once Glass & Stops are removed, Cut Stop away by placing flat on solid floor against scrap wood strip along a wall. As you cut, place finish nails between wood and glass, the Liquid Nails will try to reattach itself. The Plastic Laminate will protect the glass . That is if the saw Blade is kept on the wood side of the Liquid Nails :
http://i610.photobucket.com/albums/tt190/Mccc/A2.jpg
This is very tedious, if it is too much work, Just fork out a hundred bucks or more for new glass

½ Plate Glass $3 to $5 Price (per square foot)