Door options in hall
#1
03-29-11, 08:25 PM
Door options in hall
Hi,
I've got a hallway in our finished basement (drywall all around) that I need to put a door in (to keep the cats out of the back area). My first thought was a bi-fold door.
My opening is 36" wide by 88" high, from the ceiling to the top of the carpet. Under the carpet is concrete.
The bi-fold doors at Lowe's are 80" tall, but there is a contractor supply store near here that has 7' doors. That's 84" - is that tall enough to fill the space? Are there better options for what I'm trying to do?
Thanks,
Paul
I've got a hallway in our finished basement (drywall all around) that I need to put a door in (to keep the cats out of the back area). My first thought was a bi-fold door.
My opening is 36" wide by 88" high, from the ceiling to the top of the carpet. Under the carpet is concrete.
The bi-fold doors at Lowe's are 80" tall, but there is a contractor supply store near here that has 7' doors. That's 84" - is that tall enough to fill the space? Are there better options for what I'm trying to do?
Thanks,
Paul
#3
03-29-11, 09:39 PM
Group Moderator
This past weekend one of our cats got the set of bifold door open, got on top of the washer/dryer and got into the catnip we keep in a ziplock bag. It was like that scene from "the Fockers" where the cat eats the nicorette gum and goes berzerk. I second the recommendation for a door with a doorknob. The bigger the better. A 36" prehung door will require an opening that's 38x82. A 32" prehung needs an opening 34x82.
#5
03-30-11, 04:58 AM
Yes, a regular 32" door will need a 34" wide opening, so adding 3/4" (ripped 1x6 to 4 9/16") to the studs on either side will bring your opening to about what you need. Cut the 1x lumber to 81 3/4" long. Then set your header made of 2 ea. 2x6's cut 36" long, sandwiched with 1/2" plywood between the layers and a 1x6 ripped to 4 9/16" on the bottom, on the two 1x "jacks" you made, nailing it all in. Finish all your sheetrock on the sides and over the header. Your finished opening should now be 34 1/2 x 81 3/4" if my math is correct, which will be acceptable for you to install a 2-8 x 6-8 prehung door. Make sure you buy it with the correct swing so it won't interfere with other doors or light switches.
#6
03-30-11, 05:09 AM
Member
By making the opening smaller you may have to just use 3-1/4 instead of 2-1/4 wide casing to cover the gap.
#7
03-30-11, 06:48 AM
Thanks Chandler, I appreciate the very detailed help. I have a couple of easy questions but the answer isn't obvious to me. Do I remove the carpet so the frame rests on the concrete, and does it need to be attached to the concrete? I don't have a hammer drill but I can rent one if necessary.
Paul
Paul
#8
03-30-11, 07:44 AM
You should be able to do all the work over top of the carpet although you'll want to cover up the carpet to keep it clean - especially when you do the drywall work. I'd remove the drywall where you'll attach the framing, that way it would be more secure than mounting thru the drywall [the drywall might compress]
btw - welcome to the forums Paul!
btw - welcome to the forums Paul!
#9
03-30-11, 07:53 AM
Thanks Mark (and everyone else who answered)! I wish I'd known about this site long ago. Lack of knowledge has never stopped me from starting new projects! Finishing them, though, that's a different story 
Paul
Paul
#10
03-30-11, 09:06 AM
Super Moderator
One note...from your earlier post, it seems you believe it needs to be anchored to the floor. Interior doors don't have a sill or threshold that needs to be screwed down or anything. They attach just at the side jambs.
I dunno, but I think you should carefully cut the carpet so the additional framing sits solidly on the concrete. Door jambs get undercut all the time, but the framing should sit solid.
Also, if this might be just a temporary thing (cats go away eventually) for whatever reason..it might be easier to to add a couple of 2x4s to the top to mount the track and add a locking device to the bifolds. Can't have much of a gap at the bottom though.
I dunno, but I think you should carefully cut the carpet so the additional framing sits solidly on the concrete. Door jambs get undercut all the time, but the framing should sit solid.
Also, if this might be just a temporary thing (cats go away eventually) for whatever reason..it might be easier to to add a couple of 2x4s to the top to mount the track and add a locking device to the bifolds. Can't have much of a gap at the bottom though.
#11
03-30-11, 09:13 AM
I don't know if our cats will ever go away, unless my wife goes away. Hmmm...now there's an option I hadn't considered! 
Thanks for the additional advice!
Paul
Thanks for the additional advice!
Paul
#12
03-30-11, 02:05 PM
The measurements I gave will allow for carpeting, so you can set the jambs directly on carpet. Just be sure you square and plumb the jambs and header so the door won't bind.
#13
04-10-11, 08:47 AM
Another problem
Chandler, your instructions were spot on. I built the opening just like you said and it came out great. Now I've got a new problem...
I have a 32" door which should be perfect for a 36" opening, but the door I have (this one: JELD-WEN 32 in. Composite White Right-Hand 6-Panel Pre-hung Door - 947470 at The Home Depot) is over 37" wide thanks to the trim. Should I remove the trim, or cut it, or did I get the wrong door?
Thanks,
Paul
I have a 32" door which should be perfect for a 36" opening, but the door I have (this one: JELD-WEN 32 in. Composite White Right-Hand 6-Panel Pre-hung Door - 947470 at The Home Depot) is over 37" wide thanks to the trim. Should I remove the trim, or cut it, or did I get the wrong door?
Thanks,
Paul
#14
04-10-11, 09:10 AM
Super Moderator
I hope you mis-typed....your opening should be about 34 1/2..not 36. Also, pre-hung doors with trim attached are split jamb and normally have some staples or strapping holding the jambs together.
Like was said earlier, unless you are going to cover the framing with sheetrock, you may need to remove the standard 2 1/4 trim and go to 3 1/4
Like was said earlier, unless you are going to cover the framing with sheetrock, you may need to remove the standard 2 1/4 trim and go to 3 1/4
#15
04-10-11, 09:28 AM
Gunguy,
No, it's not a typo...as described in the first post in this thread, the hallway is 36" wide. However, I built a frame like Chandler described in the 5th post in this thread which reduced the opening to 34 1/2". Sorry for the confusion there.
After I posted my most recent message I looked at the trim and found it was easily removed because it was stapled on. I'll just install the door and find suitable trim.
Paul
No, it's not a typo...as described in the first post in this thread, the hallway is 36" wide. However, I built a frame like Chandler described in the 5th post in this thread which reduced the opening to 34 1/2". Sorry for the confusion there.
After I posted my most recent message I looked at the trim and found it was easily removed because it was stapled on. I'll just install the door and find suitable trim.
Paul
