Measuring for a New Window
#1
05-17-11, 04:08 PM
Measuring for a New Window
Been ahwile since I have been in the forum.
I have a hole in my basement wall that use to be used for shuffling wood in for my wood stove. When the owner before me did not use this hole any more they sealed it shut with 2x4's and some ply wood.
I am now refinishing that side of the basement and would like to put in a window for egress per code. The outer most ring of 2x4's equals 24.5 sqaure. I have found a window that will fit but I am totally unsure of how to measure accurately tto make sure I get the correct window.
Anybody have any suggestions? Do I need to measure the hole from side to side and top tp bottom from the cement wall or from the outer most 2x4?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a hole in my basement wall that use to be used for shuffling wood in for my wood stove. When the owner before me did not use this hole any more they sealed it shut with 2x4's and some ply wood.
I am now refinishing that side of the basement and would like to put in a window for egress per code. The outer most ring of 2x4's equals 24.5 sqaure. I have found a window that will fit but I am totally unsure of how to measure accurately tto make sure I get the correct window.
Anybody have any suggestions? Do I need to measure the hole from side to side and top tp bottom from the cement wall or from the outer most 2x4?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#2
05-17-11, 05:38 PM
Sight unseen, normally you would frame the opening using 2x8's, top first, sides and bottom, using a good PL adhesive on the block to hold it all together. This will give you something to nail your window and trim to.
If you choose to do that take three measurements inside the framing, top-middle-bottom, and to the same on the vertical, right to left. Use the shortest of these measurements for your opening size. The window will be a bit smaller than the opening to allow for shimming and truing for plumb and square.
If you choose to do that take three measurements inside the framing, top-middle-bottom, and to the same on the vertical, right to left. Use the shortest of these measurements for your opening size. The window will be a bit smaller than the opening to allow for shimming and truing for plumb and square.
#3
05-17-11, 06:08 PM
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Window manufacturers specify the Rough Opening (R.O.) required for installation of their products. However, a 24" square opening will not meet the code requirement for an egress opening. The 2009 IRC specifies a minimum of 5.7 sq. ft. net clear opening.
#4
05-18-11, 04:11 PM
SO tldoug, would you reccomend forgoing the installion of a window and sealing it up.
I do have a basement door on the other side. I am trying to use the space efficiently as possible as well let in some natural light.
I am, like most, not a man with a lot of money, so trying to be as frugal as possible.
I do have a basement door on the other side. I am trying to use the space efficiently as possible as well let in some natural light.
I am, like most, not a man with a lot of money, so trying to be as frugal as possible.
#5
05-18-11, 04:23 PM
Super Moderator
No reason to seal it...a fixed, hopper, or awning window could be made to fit the opening pretty cheaply and the latter 2 would allow ventilation if desired. Not that they would meet egress codes of course.
A picture would be a great help for installation advice...How To Put Pictures In Your Post - DoItYourself.com Community Forums
A picture would be a great help for installation advice...How To Put Pictures In Your Post - DoItYourself.com Community Forums
#7
05-21-11, 03:08 PM
Member
I presume the existing 'boarding-up' with 2x4's and ply, have the 2x4's attached To the concrete wall, around the opening..and not within the 'hole' as in framing the inside, as Chandler is referring to, regarding the framing of the opeing. So you have to measure the interior of the opening to get your RO, once it is framed or boxed in with 2x6's ..or however deep the wall is..
