Exterior Door Sag
#1
09-04-11, 11:32 AM
Exterior Door Sag
I am a jack of all trades type, so the master of nothing. I continually have problems with exterior doors sagging after installation. I remedy the problem by re-mortising the top hinge to pull the door back into plumb. When installing I set the hinge jamb with 2-3" construction screws at each hinge. Most recently, I put a new front door (Simpson) on my house. Initially it was perfect, but within a week the margins were uneven and the dead bolt was misaligned. I cut the top hinge mortises deeper and it was perfect again. 3 months later it has sagged again. Am I missing something basic???
#2
09-04-11, 12:33 PM
Yeah, the door had a perfect fit from the factory. Re-mortising it isn't the solution. Your 3" screws aren't grabbing into framing. The hinge has 4 screws. The two outside holes may not hit framing. You need to use the two closest to the stop in order to pull the door into an anti sagging alignment. NOW, if this is a single framed door, all the above applies. If it is a door with sidelites, all bets are off. You have no framing 
. It will only be a strong as the framework (or trim) around the sidelite. In addition, if it is a multiple door/lite combo with the working door hinging off the other door mullion, there is nothing for the screws to grab.
Which do you have?
. It will only be a strong as the framework (or trim) around the sidelite. In addition, if it is a multiple door/lite combo with the working door hinging off the other door mullion, there is nothing for the screws to grab.Which do you have?
#3
09-04-11, 02:23 PM
My last post didn't post
I'll try again. It is a single half lite 36" door. I put one 3" screw on either side of all 3 hinges (6 screws total). They are into framing. What I observe is the door sagging within the prehung jamb. Are you suggesting that I replace some of the short hinge screws with long one that will anchor the hinges to the framing and not just the jamb?? Thanks in advance.
#4
09-04-11, 02:42 PM
Yes, pull the inward two screws adjacent to the stop molding and insert 3" screws into those holes. That way you are pulling both the door and jamb at the same time. Screws independently in the jamb only pull the jamb. Let us know how it goes.
#5
09-04-11, 04:25 PM
Very Clear Advice
I am plumbing tomorrow, but will respond Tue. If this works, it is a bunch easier than re-mortising. I really appreciate those of you who post so much on the board.
#6
09-14-11, 11:33 AM
Follow Up Finally
Plumbing took longer than I thought. I replaced the inner two hinge screws with 3" construction screws, which caught solid wood. It did not pull the jamb back at all. The problem may be that I have completed molding and painting on the inside. The moldings are nailed to the jamb and framing plus being caulked, so things are pretty rigid.
I slipped a drywall shim behind the lower hinge on the jamb and this re-squared the door perfectly. I'll see if it lasts.
I slipped a drywall shim behind the lower hinge on the jamb and this re-squared the door perfectly. I'll see if it lasts.
#7
09-14-11, 01:02 PM
You may have had it jammed at the top anyway, so the shim at the bottom, if it makes it square, should be fine. You put a 3" screw in a hinge and it bites wood, I don't care what molding, nails, etc you have in the door, it will move, especially with an impact driver or drill.
