Sealing Wood on Windows?


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Old 09-19-11, 07:28 AM
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Sealing Wood on Windows?

Hello, it's been awhile since I posted here but I LOVE these forums. I looked around to see if there were any previous threads but I wasn't finding any on staining windows....

We recently purchased a home built in 2002 and the windows on the home are vinyl exterior and wood interior. They are crank out style windows.

For some dumb reason (short cut, cheap route) the builder did not seal the entire wood portion of the window. So only the portion of the window that you see inside is stained and sealed. When you open the window you can see that the edge that touches the house when closed is not stained and it doesn't look sealed either. The under neath side and sides aren't sealed either.

When we had the home inspected the inspector noted this also and said that we needed to seal the wood on the windows.

My question is, what kind of sealer should we buy? I'm not concerned with trying to stain it. I just want it sealed to repel water, etc. There are a couple of areas on two or four windows that you can tell water has been penetrating the wood because it has grown mold. So I know I need to focus on those quickly to kill the mold and then seal it to hopefully stop the deterioration of the wood.

Suggestions on stopping the mold (bleach water ok???) and then sealing the wood?
Thanks guys/gals in advance!
 
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Old 09-19-11, 07:53 AM
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A couple coats of polyurethane would be my choice - I stain and poly this surface as well as those surfaces visible all the time when I install new windows.
 
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Old 09-19-11, 08:18 AM
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Ok, I had thought about that but didn't know if it would be the best route or not. Just paint it on with a good brush?
 
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Old 09-19-11, 08:26 AM
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Oh also what about the mold? Should I use a bleach solution?
 
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Old 09-19-11, 08:30 AM
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Yes on both your questions - 50/50 bleach/water solution to kill the mold and then brush on the poly once the wood is completely dry again.

Just in case you didn't know this, you need to sand lightly between coats of poly (I use 220 grit) to ensure good adhesion between the layers (be sure to remove sanding dust prior to applying the next coat).
 
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Old 09-19-11, 08:44 AM
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Oh that's a great tip, I had no idea you should do that. I've done poly before on a shelf, and that probably would have been helpful. Thanks so much. I appreciate it!!
 
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Old 09-19-11, 03:34 PM
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Just a reminder - make sure you rinse off the bleach/water solution!

I've painted/stained lots of woodwork on new residential construction and would have never left something like that unstained/finished...... even if the builder was too cheap to pay for a good paint job. Shame on the painter [or whoever] that didn't do the job properly.
 
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Old 09-19-11, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by marksr View Post
Just a reminder - make sure you rinse off the bleach/water solution!

I've painted/stained lots of woodwork on new residential construction and would have never left something like that unstained/finished...... even if the builder was too cheap to pay for a good paint job. Shame on the painter [or whoever] that didn't do the job properly.
marksr: thanks...good note on rinsing. I thought about that but it's good to have a reminder on it.

I totally agree that it's just a shoddy job. I can't believe that the previous original owners of the home didn't say anything about it when it was built. But maybe they didn't know. They also never seemed to open the windows because we had to have several sets forced open and repaired because they hadn't been used in an extremely long time.

Thanks again!
 
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Old 09-20-11, 03:30 AM
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"we had to have several sets forced open and repaired because they hadn't been used in an extremely long time"

That was probably a product of the windows being finished while shut. Normally you open the window during the painting/staining process and then leave it cracked open until the paint/poly dries. Usually a stuck window can be opened without using force that will damage the window. Using a stiff putty knife to break the paint seal around all the edges and then gently massaging the window by prying here and there will get it open. It does take some time and patience

I have a stepson who never ever opens his windows. I guess he'd rather have the HVAC air than have to breathe fresh air
 
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Old 09-21-11, 08:39 AM
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I've never finished a window without having it open to get at all the wood.

Ugh. You shouldn't have to be doing this.
 
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Old 09-21-11, 03:49 PM
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My guess is the house was done in the winter time...... but that shouldn't prevent proper procedures. I've painted/stained the interior side of many windows in the winter time - you just don't leave them open any longer than you have to and instead of closing them up tight, you leave a 1/4" or less at the top and bottom [for a double hung] Casement windows are a little harder to leave cracked but some do have removable strips of insulation
 
 

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