i have attached some pictures but basically I want to have a pocket door that extends to the right. It is a 32 inch door so the opening needs to be 2x + 1" if i use the johnson 1500 series. That will take up almost all of the wall in from of you.

As you can see about 20" off the ground there is a 2x10... my question is can i just cut it back to the right, raise the header 4 1/2" and extend it the full 65" and not have any issues?

i have attached pictures of the framing, overhead ceiling from the attack, and interior side from the bonus.

Also not that about 20" up is where the floor for the bonus begins, i'm pretty sure the floor in the bonus is self supporting and that this cross beem (2x10") isn't supporting that floor.

Ideas?

 

If I understand correctly, you are installing a pocket door at the bottom of a stairwell, or at least at a landing??? Probably not legal under most codes, unless this might be going to the attic. If that is the case, a hinged door would be much simpler.

As to the framing issues: moving or cutting the 2x10 could be a major issue as far as the house structure goes. You need on sight eyes from someone that understands the support sturcture.

 

As Bill says, get on site recommendations. As for that 2x10, it is the header for the framework holding the left side of your staircase, and it can't be removed. I would say this wall is somewhat load bearing, especially since a set of stairs is involved.

 

Good Information. Basically, that staircase (5 steps) use to go to over the garage and it has been finished. The 2x10 is two 2x10s beside each other with two flat 2x4's underneith then a sheet of plywood on top (cut to the width of the two 2x10's then another flat 2x4. It seemed to me that it was just spacing the gap from the 2x4's that are running down to the 2x4's that are running into the attic.

What i want to do is cut it back about 30" then raise the 2x6 header about 4.5" and extended it the full 65" that is needed for the door. It didn't appear that the bonus/attic floor tied into the 2x10.

Also what would make it not legal? The 2x6 header on the right side of the door frame it being supported by a 1x4.

this wall previously had an exterior door (metal, with metal threshold) that I tore out because it opened into the landing which didn't look good. My other option would be to just frame it in with no door. i just thought it would be nice to have the option of closing it off when need be (kids sleepover, movie night, etc).

 

The 2x4 that is on the left side of the 2x10 header goes to the basement in a series of lumber and headers, transferring the weight above it downward. If you remove that header, what will hold up the roofing system above that header? That is why we suggest to get an on site engineer to look at your structure to see if it can be done without compromising all else.

 

Thanks! I think i am going to just frame the door in like it was a doorway. If I start having events in the bonus room then I'll spend a couple hundred to get it done and looked at by a professional.