New Entry door on north side of garage

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Old 04-14-12, 02:18 PM
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New Entry door on north side of garage

Hello all, I am planning to put a new entry door on the backside of my attached garage. The interior of the garage is drywall and the exterior is vinyl. There is currently no door, I will be putting one in from scratch so to speak. I have replaced doors before, but cutting one in from scratch is new to me.

I want to put an entrance door in but I am worried about doing it correctly. I have always thought j channel kept moisture out from behind the vinyl but after reading a few posts I now know that is not correct. Can someone help me understand how to install my door so that I don't end up with a moisture problem? I have not cut into anything as of yet.

I do understand how to reinforce the wall studs and the use of a header.

Thanks,

Zepp
 
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Old 04-14-12, 02:50 PM
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Best thing to do (since it is vinyl) is probably just to take it all down, if that's feasable. It's easy to unzip and unhook from the existing nails. The housewrap, felt paper or foam behind the siding is what provides the weather resistive barrier (WRB). Removing all the siding will allow you to examine the WRB and ensure that it's in good shape as you install the door on top of it. After the door is installed, you can put some window flashing tape around it, and put new j-channel on. Then you'll cut the siding to fit and put it back on. Any water that gets in around the j-channel will harmlessly drain out the bottom, provided your WRB is intact.
 
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Old 04-14-12, 03:11 PM
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Thanks XSleeper, This is a 2005 house, is it safe to assume that it does have WRB already in place? If so, is the purpose of removing the siding inspection only?

If the door is prehung, what gets flashing tape? I know windows have the vinyl flange where the screws hold it in place which I believe then gets the flashing tape, but what about a door with brick molding?

Thanks,

Zepp
 
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Old 04-14-12, 03:55 PM
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You would remove the siding so that you can nail your j-channel over the WRB, to the sheathing, around the door, and then cut the vinyl siding to fit back into the j-channel.

When you install a door that has brickmould, you can bend the window flashing tape onto the edge of the brickmould. I've also read an article by a guy who likes to actually apply flashing tape to the back of the brickmould to create a "fin" of sorts, then install the door, then apply more tape on top of that "fin" he's created.

There are many doors that are aluminum clad, that have an aluminum nailing fin, or a snap in vinyl fin. Andersen's doors all have nailing fins. Most of the cheaper entry doors will just have brickmould, like you mentioned.

You would not be safe in assuming there is a WRB behind the siding. Common sense says yes, but many builders omit it, especially on a garage. Unzip a piece of siding at one of the butt joints and have a look.
 
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