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Reparing wood rot on exterior door and frame - suggestions for material

Reparing wood rot on exterior door and frame - suggestions for material


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Old 06-06-12, 10:43 AM
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Reparing wood rot on exterior door and frame - suggestions for material

I know there are other threads on this and I've read through them, I'm just looking for a little more information, as this is a repair that I myself have not tried before. This is an exterior door, it's the side door in my garage, and the area outside splashes up a lot of water when we get a heavy rain. This door is a fiberglass door, I had a guy install it several years ago, and at the same time he aluminum-wrapped my wood windows, the garage door trim, and the exterior trim on this door. (Yes I know...better to replace than wrap - but I could not afford that then, and still can't).

I have cut the wrap and chiseled out much of the rot on the jamb, as I wanted to see what I was dealing with. The bottom few inches is rotted back to the brick, but about 4 inches up it's good and sold. I also discovered that the piece inside the jamb - I don't know what that is called...it's the part inside that seal in the picture...what the side of the door actually closes against...there is some rot on that piece as well. (this picture is before I did anything obviously, I'll try to take another pic if I can remember tonight).

ALSO, , I found that about an inch or so of the door bottom itself, at that corner, is starting to rot. So much for a fiberglass door...it's only fiberglass paneled...I didn't even realize that.

So...I'm looking at three areas, well actually 4 - there is a small amount of rot on the opposite side of the door - the side that opens - but it's very small. So, I plan on trimming out (thought I would use an oscillating tool to get a nice straight cut?) the rot up to about the red line. And then I have to figure out what size (2x4 or 1x4?) wood to cut to replace it. I'm planning on using PT wood - since there is so much water splash there, it just seems nuts to use anything else. What materials should I use to bond the new wood into place? I've read about people using Bondo...but then I read that that stuff doesn't expand and contract, and will start pulling away in a couple of years. Suggestions? Also, what can I do about the wrap that is missing at the bottom...wood it be better to just leave it? That way I can keep a better eye on the repair and keep it painted? I guess I should go over the seams again too...it looks like there are some hairline cracks in there that will only get worse.

Man...I hate wood on the outside of a house. One day when I can afford it...I'll get it all replaced...with something else (vinyl? I don't know...but there has to be a better way! )
 
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Old 06-06-12, 01:28 PM
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Repairs such as this can be accomplished with Minwax wood epoxy (Bondo in a yellow can). You have to work fast as it can set up rather quickly. Rasp it off, sand it smooth and prime/paint it. I have never had a Bondo repair separate. Of course if you don't get all the bad wood out, it will separate, so get it all. Pull the door seal (someone didn't when they painted last time ) and make the repair, replacing the seal in the groove when you finish. Another more drastic approach is to replace the entire latch side of the door casing. They are sold at box stores.
 
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Old 06-06-12, 03:24 PM
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Thanks. What about flashing or some type of barrier against the brick? I read where you shouldn't have wood against the brick because the wood will absorb water from the brick? When I pulled out the rotted section, there was some sort of white rubbery covering behind it, I pulled some of it out, with the wood, because I didn't know what the hell I was doing. Seems like it was some sort of foam barrier? Don't I need to replace that? Also, there are screws coming UP from the aluminum sill, where I pulled out the rot. Obviously I'll have to cut those off, but how in the heck did they get there, and what is the purpose?
 
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Old 06-06-12, 03:51 PM
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The aluminum wrap should have covered that. I'd bondo the jamb, grind it flat, replace the brickmould, then rewrap the entire door.

The aluminum sill is screwed to the legs of the jamb, which is done in the factory before the door is installed. Your jamb is now not connected to the sill so when the door slams, the two pieces might want to move independently. I'd suggest you put a couple screws through the jamb to try and ensure that it doesn't move around too much.

The white stuff you pulled out might have been backer rod (caulk saver) which fills wide gaps before you caulk a spot like brick-to-wood.
 
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Old 06-06-12, 03:55 PM
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Brick breathe on their own, and although wood will absorb water, the water is transient. It is possible there was foam type insulation behind the frame. The screws from the threshold were there to hold the vertical jamb in place. The jamb is one unit screwed/stapled together. That was one of the scenarios I suggested, replacing the entire jamb side. You're already knee deep in it.
 
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Old 06-06-12, 08:32 PM
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"The aluminum sill is screwed to the legs of the jamb, which is done in the factory before the door is installed."

The sill came with the door?? I had no idea. What do people do when they want to put in a new threshold/sill, independent of the door?
 
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Old 06-06-12, 08:46 PM
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When you put in a new threshold or sill, you would need to make sure the legs of the jamb are fixed securely to the wall studs, which is what I suggested you do. They would also have to ensure that there is no leakage between the joint where the jamb and threshold/sill meet, which is pretty tough to do. It's one of the main reasons I always encourage people to put storm doors on their new doors, since the storm door protects and deflects 99% of the water from hitting these high risk areas that are prone to decay and/or leakage. Wind driven rain will find it's way in if there's a way.
 
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Old 06-08-12, 01:50 PM
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""bondo the jamb, grind it flat, replace the brickmould, then rewrap the entire door."


How would I rewrap the entire door? I had a professional door & window guy do this years ago...I have no idea how to go about that.
 
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Old 06-08-12, 02:12 PM
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I have some better pics that show how far the damage is. I don't think we're talking Bondo here - lloks like I need to replace the wood section with new wood.

On the right is where I cut off the wrap - the white tape is just where I had taped it back on until I could spend more time on it. You can see the white "stuff" against the brick that I was talking about. I bought some DAP insulating foam - that seemed to be a likely replacement. I also bought some good waterproof exterior silicone caulk. And I have plenty of wood. And I have a Dremel MuliMax osciallating tool (which is new...I've not even used it yet).

Now, what can I cut those screws with? I'm asking because I don't want to try the MultiMax and break a $15 blade if it's not a sure solution. I also have a regular dremel - I know a cutoff wheel would do it, just not sure if I can get them cut flush. I can't really tell what those screws are under...(I don't think this sill came with the door...I mean, it's attached to the concrete, and it's a nice threshold...not something I'd want to rip out, and I don't need to anyway). I'll have to take a closer look at it tonight...looks like there is a piece there at the bottom - not sure what that is.

Since the jamb piece will be going against brick...how do I attach it? I can't screw it to a stud...there is no stud. Do I glue it in? The outside piece can be screwed against the inside...right?

The piece inside the door (to the left of the seal)...someone said to pull that seal off...I can just pull it out and then push it back in? (Again...never done this - doors are new to me!) The small amount of rot on the door itself, if you can see it in the pictures...I am thinking that I can remove that, and then bondo it. Does that make sense?

As far as the wrap...I am wondering if I should just remove the entire strip...I can't help but think that it must be leaking at the top somewhere and letting water drip down there. I have gutters, so that's not the problem. I just don't know what to do about replacing the wrap.

Thanks for any advice and ideas....this forum is really a huge help to folks like me!!
 
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Old 06-08-12, 04:10 PM
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Unless XSleeper has a better solution, it's time to replace the entire door jamb. If you want to keep the original door, you can fit it to the new jamb, but I don't think you are happy with it either. IMO, the labor involved (I know it is DIY) would far exceed removing the entire door and casing and starting over with a new prehung door.
 
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Old 06-10-12, 07:12 AM
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OKay, I learned a LOT yesterday. My BF came over and educated me. I feel pretty dumb.

1) Yep, you were all right (of course) the threshold/sill is certainly part of the entire pre-framed door. The screws at the sill just allow you to raise and lower the sill. Duh.

2) I didn't realize that the entire section was ONE piece of wood! I thought the part on the other side of the seal was a separate strip. Obviously I've never seen door parts before. Another DUH. Now I know.

3) I don't have a fiberglass/wood door. I have a crappy steel door with a wood core.

4) I agree, for the work involved, it does make more sense to just replace the entire door. BUT, my finances won't allow that right now. So we repaired it, nicely.

We used a sawzall and cut off the bottom 5 inches. Took that piece to the HD and purchased a new entire strip of door jamb ($15). We also bought a new PVC brick mold strip. Cut a perfect match of the jamb, glued and caulked well. Attached brick mold, and caulked. I'll be painting tomorrow. And I will do the other side myself, now that I know how everything is put together. It looks really great. I'll post a pic when it's all done.

Thanks for all the help...sometimes I just have to see how things are put together to understand it!
 
 

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