door jamb got wet

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Old 08-04-12, 07:48 PM
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door jamb got wet

My 7 year old house basement has a back door to the backyard.
The back door jamb got wet when it's raining.
At lower part of the door jamb,
some plastic covering is broken and some wood is rotten black.

How do I repair this? I don't want to cut and replace the jamb wood part.
Can I just sand paper and put gray silicone caulk on it?

Also, how can I keep the rain water? Install storm door? then what about upper part of the door. It looks like taller than normal storm door.

Any advices please.
 
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Old 08-04-12, 10:48 PM
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Scrape then sand all the old paint off the damaged area, and cut away all the loose caulk, first of all. provided the wood is still substantial enough, prime with oil primer, recaulk inside corners with a siliconized latex, then paint everything with a latex paint topcoat. Don't use silicone for anything on your door, unless it is just for a fine finish bead of caulk (after all painting is done) where the wood meets the aluminum sill.

I think you will have a hard time putting a storm door on that opening since it looks to be a little tight. What's the distance from brick to brick on the sides? You need about 33 3/4" / 37 3/4" between the brick for an aluminum storm door to fit.
 
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Old 08-05-12, 02:22 PM
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Thanks for reply.

* To Repair
Marked "A" part has thick coating on the bare wood.
To me, it looks like 1/16" plastic or 10 times painted thing.
How do I fill this thickness? Will paste wood filler work?

* To install storm door
I measured all the sizes. Existing door opening is 36"x80".
I think the only place to install is Mark "C" area.
but it looks like hard plastic. I don't know what's inside of the plastic. so I wonder if it'll support the door hinge rail plate. Also front width(between "D" and "C", 1/2"~3/4") looks not enough. ..
For most storm doors need 3/4"~1" front face width requirement.
 
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Old 08-05-12, 03:17 PM
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"A" is likely a vinyl cladding. You will probably need to cut off any vinyl cladding that is loose. You should probably use an exterior epoxy filler, such as the one minwax makes. Bondo would also work, but whatever you use will likely need frequent maintenance. There isn't much that will bond permanently to a substrate that is getting wet, which compromises the adhesion.

To add a storm door, you'd likely need to add furring onto the jamb "B, C & D" so that they are all at the same level as "A"... so that you have 35" between each side. IMO the easiest thing to do would be to rip off "D" which looks to me like aluminum trim coil. It probably covers the gap between the brick and the sheathing. I'd also rip off "C" which is just a jamb extension. Replace "C" with a new jamb extension that is equal in width to "C+D, minus 1"". You will likely need to use construction adhesive to glue the back side to the brick, and to the jamb, B. Can't say for sure exactly how it will end up being secured. In front of this jamb, which measures 35" wide from side to side, you will need a piece of face trim, 1" thick (lets call it D2) that is set back an additional 1/2" to each side. Once "D2" is applied to the face of "D", the distance between the face trim will then be about 35 7/8", which is the perfect width for a storm door.

The face of your storm door would actually be out at the front of "D", and will sweep on the cement sill on bottom. This will prevent most water from puddling on the flat area in front of the door, which will help keep the side jambs from standing in water all the time.

You'll also likely want to do something on top to extend the transom window out in the same manner, then perhaps cover it with a custom sized storm window.

If all this seems over your head, you can purchase a storm door from a big box, contract them to install it, and specifically request that they re-clad the exterior of your door jamb with trim coil prior to installing the storm door. If you show them the pictures, perhaps it will be clear to them why you want it to be clad.

Also, that door bottom sweep looks like a problem. How does that possibly not catch and hold water?
 
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Old 08-07-12, 02:53 AM
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Thank you for reply again.

Because I don't want to add custom job to the top part window, and sides and top must be flat level for the rain cap and side z bars. I'd like to install a storm door at the "C".
If I dig (without remove whole D) deeply with utility knife into the caulk between C & D, I think I can make 3/4" face width, then I can put the storm door's side z bar into the gap, and manage to put screws.

Is "C" strong? What's behind the C part? Hopefully wood?,
Can I use longer screws, like 2~3 inches, to penetrate the plastic C part and catch wood behind? I might drill a small hole to check what's behind it.

The existing door's bottom sweep is okay. no holding water.
The damage was because heavy rain drop to D or E,
then the rain splash over A,B and C's 1 feet.
Also, my roof gutter has problem (water fall down between gutter and fascia)
so even light rain also make the jamb wet.
If I put a storm door at C, then A,B will be dry all the time.
also, it'll keep from snow build up at winter.
I wish I had installed it many years ago.
 
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Old 08-07-12, 06:13 AM
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If you do that, and can get it to fit, you will still need to add 1/2" of wood onto B & C to make it flush with A. There might be wood behind C, but it could also be 1" of foam.
 
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Old 08-07-12, 10:11 AM
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For many 36x80 storm doors, it says 35" is not enough.
Am I missing something?
 
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Old 08-07-12, 11:29 AM
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Sorry, I misspoke. You would need to add 1/2" onto B & C, minus 1" for the storm door. Adding that 1/2" gives the storm door Z-bar something to butt up to, and gives your door lever latch and safety chain something to mount to.

If "C" is 1" wide then you would only add 1/2" onto B. But in the picture it looks a little wider than that. So it would be more correct to say the width of the filler would be (B+C) - 1".

White PVC would be the ideal material for this, since it would not require paint (as long as you like white) and won't ever rot. If you have a table saw, you could buy a PVC 1x8x8', rip it down into 3 strips that are the correct width, (for the top and 2 sides) then rip those strips down to your 1/2" thickness.
 
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Old 09-28-12, 04:27 PM
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just to update.

After removed rot wood jamb, filled it with wood filler,
painted sealer primer and painted 2 top coats,
I installed the storm door, Larson Savannah.
I caulked everywhere to protect water from getting into the door's wood core.

Thanks for all the advices.
 
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Old 09-29-12, 04:49 AM
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I know it was a difficult task, but you did really good, considering what you had to work with. XSleeper will be along to give his critique, since he was the original "answerer" to your questions. Glad you had the "push" to see it through.
 
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