I am installing a new prehung door in my kitchen and got to the end and had a problem I cannot figure out! I got the door set in place without problem, level at all angles. But when I came back inside to finish it up, I noticed that the door frame is not matching up flush to the rough opening frame. At the bottom it is maybe 1/4" away from flush.

Can anyone out there help me troubleshoot this problem? This is my first exterior door and frame replacement and I'm almost certain I'm overlooking my problem, but any guidance or instruction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

Either the wall isn't plumb, the door isn't pushed in far enough or that corner, or your wall thickness is thicker on that corner for some reason.

 

Thinking about this a little more, I wonder if you are using the right terminology. Are you saying that the door (the part that swings) is not flush with the jamb when the door is closed? Because the way you said it, makes it sound like the prehung door unit isn't flush with the interior wall / framing all the way around.

 

No, the "door" itself is fine and swings/closes fine. My issue is with the prehung frame. Basically, there will be a 1/8-1/4" gap in the molding when I put it back on.

 

Where is the gap? Between the molding and the sheetrock? Maybe you could post a couple of pix of the problem so we can get on the same page. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html

What part of Athens are you in? 5 Points? Different construction there, so I just want to know.

 

The gap is between the sheetrock and the prehung frame. I've attached a few pictures of my door. You'll see at the bottoms where the frame doesn't match up to the house frame. It is not this way at the top.

I'm in West Athens (Timothy Road area, not 5pts). House was built in '69

 

Just did a quick read but it seems your wall may be a bit thicker then the door was designed for. I always tried to set the door flush with the inside Sheetrock. Then if necessary rip a thin strip of wood to glue to the edges out side to make the door jamb thick enough for the opening.

 

Ouch, my neck hurts. How is the clearance on the outside of the house? Is the brick mold flush with whatever substrate you have for your siding? It looks as if there is a little space that the door can move inward, shown by the tile gap. May not be enough to eliminate your problem, though. As Ray said, jamb extensions made of thin wood the thickness of the error, tacked on to the end of the door frame will allow you to put door molding on and paint the entire thing.
I was asking location due to the older homes in 5 points. Worked on many of them. Classics. None had straight framing and special care was needed to do any modifications. I had a cattle farm out in Colbert.