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EXTERIOR door issue, threshold on pre-hung door extends beyond door frame

EXTERIOR door issue, threshold on pre-hung door extends beyond door frame

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  #1  
Old 11-09-12, 04:15 PM
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EXTERIOR door issue, threshold on pre-hung door extends beyond door frame

Sorry for posting exterior questions to the interior forum, but there did not look to be a door category in exterior issues.

This door leads from a patio to the garage. The slab of the garage is 1/4 inch or so higher than the patio (seems good). However the fame of the existing door is flush with this level change, and there is not threshold at all (so water of course can easily flow under the door, so good thing the floor is a bit higher).

If I mount the new door in the same position, the threshold will stick out over the patio level and be out in mid air for the last 1/2", that's no good. If I move the whole door back 1/2", that would work, but then I'll have to trim around the frame to fill in the gap, which is annoying but the best solution I can see. But that also moves the dead-bolt 1/2" closer to the inside face of the stud which is a bit less secure, so this seems bad.

I could try and build up the patio right where the threshold will stick out with something. The aggragate isn't exactly smooth here so I don't envision getting a really good fit, so wather and stuff will get stick under it and ... Or is there some product that will do the trick here? Maybe a hard strip of rubber I could glue down or ...???

Any other suggestions? New door and old door shown.

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  #2  
Old 11-09-12, 04:24 PM
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Hi jg, welcome!

It's pretty normal that the front edge of the aluminum sill will hang over a slab like that. Best thing I have come up with is to glue a continuous shim to the lower surface that will provide support to the front edge of the aluminum sill so that when someone steps on it, it won't bend or flex.

I've found that some of the home improvement stores sell 4ft pieces of composite decking, (rot proof, since they are largely plastic resin) which I get in an appropriate color, rip to size on a table saw, and glue down prior to installing the door. It's always good if you check the rough opening to ensure it's level before you set the door. Grind it with a cup grinder if needed to level it. Then also level your shim... cutting it at a taper if needed so it sits level with the floor inside. Cement at door openings is rarely perfectly level, unfortunately.

Set the interior half of the door sill in a healthy bead of polyurethane sealant when you are ready to install it.
 
  #3  
Old 11-09-12, 04:27 PM
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Yea some sort of "trex" like strip might work. Thanks!
 
  #4  
Old 11-10-12, 04:08 AM
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You also want to double check your rough opening for size. More than likely your new door with threshold will will require a taller opening than the current door. It's nice to figure all this out before you get started.
 
  #5  
Old 11-10-12, 11:55 PM
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Indeed. I had not thought of this, but did measure the opening prior to any demolition, and the new door with threshold is 1/2" taller than will fit. The width fits, but is tight. crap. So (after making really really sure the width will fit all the way) I could remove the threshold and cut the ends of the frame off. Undesirable but not sure what else to do. At least the concrete is level. To prevent the door from sweeping the weather strip the entire way, I will have to find some sort of minimal threshold to put in, but it needn't be structural. Though I'll have to go find that before I'll know the proper height. The new door frame is significantly thicker in addition to the extra from the threshold than the POS in their now.
 
  #6  
Old 11-11-12, 06:18 AM
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1/2" X 1/4" space is not much to worry about. I would just install the door and pump that space with a good caulking and tool it flush. PL Polyurethane Concrete Crack Filler is pretty good stuff. Just wire brush the area well and vacuum it before installing the door.
 
  #7  
Old 11-11-12, 06:24 AM
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Height shouldn't be a big issue. Just modify the framing a little. Maybe snap a picture of the framing on top and we can tell you what to do.
 
  #8  
Old 11-11-12, 09:49 AM
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After more careful measurement, it looks like it will fit, but with barely any room to spare in some places. So if it needs adjustment for plumb etc, that is going to be difficult to impossible. No height adjustment is needed so as long as I can get it in it would work I think.

On the top is a 2x6 header. It extends just over the studs on either side, so it would be possible to take it out and replace it after the door is in, but that is more involved than I was looking for. Would have to get a sawzall to cut whatever nails are in play too.

The problem I see (in addition to no margin for error) is I won't be able to swing the door up into place but would have to slide it in. So getting the bottom plate caulked would be difficult. Currently of course its just an open space, so anything is better, caulked or not. So I'm thinking to not caulk it first, slide the door in, make sure its working, plumb, etc. then use some shims under the door side frame to try and boost it up just enough to squirt some caulking under the plate.

All suggestions (so far and to come) are most appreciated!
 

Last edited by jg167; 11-11-12 at 10:20 AM.
  #9  
Old 11-11-12, 01:05 PM
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Height problem solved. All I needed was 1/4", so I just cut up on both ends flush with the frame with a hand saw, then chissled off 1/4" of the header and in like flint! Even just barly enough room to tip back a hair to caulk.
 
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