Hey guys.. I have some water damage on the bottom of my door frame on the outside trim pieces, that has bled thru to the inside. I want to repair the siding piece on the outside, but I noticed that the "frame" piece that goes all around the door has rot too. It looks to me like this is some kind of kit that comes with all the pieces because the wood is connected with teeth on one side and grooves on the other to lock all the pieces together. My question is, do I need to buy a whole new kit? Is this a difficult job? I am handy just want to make sure I fix it right and stop all water from getting inside and ruining my new baseboards I put down in kitchen. I've already ripped all the inside trim pieces from around the door to replace those, just want to fix outside first. I have 2 pieces of 1x4" cedar to replace the outside trim pieces, but once I removed it I noticed rot deeper into the frame than I thought. Any advice is appreciated, i've included a pic of my problem area [URL=http://s136.photobucket.com/user/jsb91010/media/20130414_143823_zps3eb26715.jpg.html][IMG]http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q199/jsb91010/20130414_143823_zps3eb26715.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

I have a couple of window installation questions. In this case it's an aluminum window. I have included a sketch to explain my questions below. (1) I have seen a bunch of youtube videos and also hired window pros to install windows before. What's confusing me is most of the videos I saw, they do a water proofing all the way around the window opening with felt plastic or whatever, folding over to the outside surface of the exterior wall. However in South Florida, I have NEVER seen any window guys do any sort of paper waterproofing. Most of the time it's just buttering some caulk and sealant. Why is this? Is it because most homes down here are masonry walls and the stucco layer over the edges effectively waterproofs it? (2) When installing an aluminum window, install instructions said to apply a bead of silicon all the way around the underside of the flange (point A in my sketch), and put the window up. That seals it from the inside. After it's all secured and screwed in, then another bead of sealant all the way around between the edge of the flange and concrete on the outside. Sounds good. However, I have seen people down here removed windows on a few projects, and I have never seen any caulk or sealant on the underside of flanges. Usually the cut the outside sealant with a blade, then unscrews the edges, and the window comes out, never any window got "stubborn" with any sealant on the inside of the flanges. So is that inside flange silicon really necessary? (3) On a concrete wall, do you set your strips of window buck tight to the window frame by shimming between the buck and the concrete face? Or do you attach the buck to the concrete face, then shim between the window frame and the buck? Which is the right way? (4) Since there is a "lip" around the window frame (point B), once I pushed the window in there is still a little bit of space between the window's metal edge and the buck. When I try to screw the window in through point D, the screw will "pull" the edge towards the buck. Is this OK? I was thinking inserting another piece of 1/8" shim under the screw hole but the lip is in the way I can't slide it in there. Thanks for any advice! :)