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Using storm windows as main window and installing backwards

Using storm windows as main window and installing backwards

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  #1  
Old 05-28-13, 07:33 PM
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Using storm windows as main window and installing backwards

Ok this is a crazy question I never thought in a million years Id be asking. I'm building a descent size shed and decided since it will be unheated I would use storm windows only to save some money. I framed for the 36x39 windows because that's the size hone depot had on clearance. By the way its 2x4 framing, 16 in. on center. I thought I could screw the windows on from the outside,over my t 111,then I was going to frame around it with some 1x4's. Well I got the siding on and slid the window in and then noticed the latches for opening the window were on the outside of the shed DUH! Now I could just screw the windows on from the inside but then I'll have a sill on the outside I don't know what to do with. Returning the windows is not an option and neither is forking out more than a little extra cash. Any suggestions
 

Last edited by jonjones; 05-28-13 at 08:00 PM.
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  #2  
Old 05-28-13, 09:19 PM
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Storm windows are screwed onto the building from the outside so that the latches are on the inside. Either you aren't explaining yourself clearly or you have the window backwards, or someone put the sashes in backwards.
 
  #3  
Old 05-29-13, 04:14 AM
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Do yourself a favor. Do one of two things do not bother with the wooden trim around the window instead just caulk the back side of the fin on the window.
Or at least use 1 X 4 vinyl as the top piece when install the trim and rip the top of the piece at a slight angle so water will run off not just lay on top of it.
Every older shed I've ever seen, any place someone useed horizontal trim it's causes the trim and the T-111 to rot out.
Any trim needs to sealed on all sides, and all the T-111 should be sealed before any trim goes up.
I only use soild stain not paint on T-111, holds up far better and almost never peels like paint.
If this building is to close to grade Im 100% sure the T-111 is going to rot out at the bottom.
One way around it is to use 1 X 6 vinyl lumber at the bottom then a stip of Z moulding, with the T-111 on top of that. I also seal the bottom edge and a ft. up on the back side of the T-111 to stop it from wicking up water.
 
  #4  
Old 05-29-13, 04:26 AM
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The T-111 manufactures won't warrant their product if it's stained, they require paint. It's best to use an oil base primer and a latex house paint for the top coat. It's a good idea to prime/paint the bottom edge of the siding! Assuming it's too low to brush it - a small roller works well.
 
  #5  
Old 05-29-13, 04:32 AM
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Your going to have to back that one up with some facts for a manufactures web site not some hear say on the net.
I have by far seen more T-111 stained then painted.
GP states right on there web site it can be primed and painted or soild acrilic stain.
Georgia-Pacific Plywood Exterior Siding
 
  #6  
Old 05-29-13, 04:37 AM
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My info comes from the painting info supplied by the manufactures years ago..... long before there was an internet. The majority of what I know about painting is from 40+ yrs of applying paint, never ever used a computer until after I retired.

Going by your link, it looks like they have changed their painting specs - maybe they use better glues today than they used to do.
 
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