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Advice on Interior Doors (wall thickness)


thedon's Avatar
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CAL

06-12-13, 12:35 PM   #1  
Advice on Interior Doors (wall thickness)

Hi guys

When I go to hardware stores and look a Pre-Hung interior doors, I measure the thickness of the frame. The walls I have are about an inch thicker than the doors they sell in store. One person said that I could buy the door and then buy some trim pieces that fill up that extra gap that would be left.
The only other option would be a split jamb pre hung door. But they don't sell those in stores.
Anybody have any ideas? I know in my neighborhood that the flippers always change out the doors. I looked at many houses while I was shopping 2 years back and every house had new doors. My place needs them badly too.

 
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chandler's Avatar
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06-12-13, 01:00 PM   #2  
Welcome to the forums! Yep, if you were near my jobsite tomorrow, you could pick up abut 5 split jamb doors that were in good shape. You should be able to do the same in your area, I would think. I don't understand why you say they don't sell split jamb door casings in stores. I buy split jamb doors every job. If I have deeper walls, I special order deeper jambs, or just make jamb extensions.

Maybe a lumber yard would help you better than a hardware store.

 
Gunguy45's Avatar
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06-12-13, 01:07 PM   #3  
Larry...no split jamb doors in stock around me or when I was in San Diego CA. Not at big box stores or even and door specialty shops. All flat jamb, no trim. And even back in VA, a split jamb only gave about 3/8-1/2" of leeway IIRC.

Thedon...I know it seems a waste of money...but if the jambs you have are in good shape and you are OK with them...you could buy prehungs and remove the doors for install in your frames. As long as the hinges match up and the doors will fit of course.


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06-12-13, 04:11 PM   #4  
The 2 usual widths for door jambs are 4 9/16 and 6 9/16. If you don't order a split jamb, anything else would need to be custom made and ordered. You can add extension jambs onto standard prehungs, but you usually want to add it on the side of the jamb that doesn't have the hinges and strike plate. Because of the rounded profile on the jambs you usually want to give the extension jamb an additional 1/8 to 1/4" reveal (or set back) from the inside edge of the jamb, rather than try and line it up exactly.

 
thedon's Avatar
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06-12-13, 09:24 PM   #5  
thanks guys.

today after typing my question here, I went to the local big box next to my job. Their prehung doors are about 4 9/16ths. Just now I see I need about 5 and 3/8ths.
Some good ideas were suggested, especially that one about buying the prehung and then taking it out of the jamb. But the main reason I am buying new prehungs is because some of my current doors and jambs are slightly leaning such as the door doesnt catch completely in the strike latch. So I want to start fresh. Ill try finding some guys and ask where they get their doors from. I kinda want to get one of the standard ones and try piecing some fill pieces in there. They make custom ones but the price would go up to almost 3 times as much.
But again thanks for the replies, they were all eye openers.

 
Woodbutcher's Avatar
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06-13-13, 05:29 PM   #6  
Hi, Door latches catching is a minor problem. It sounds like you have an older home with plaster walls. If that is the case when you remove the old casing and jambs the old plaster will break and give you more grief, I would suggest that if the jambs are in good shape that you replace just the doors. Don't however get prehung door and use them. I dought that the hinges and lockset will be in the right place thus giving you more grief. You buy some cheap hollow core panel doors for about 40.00 and hang those. You may have to buy some tools if you don't have them.
attached are some directions on how to hang a door.



On your new door decide what is the top of the door. Example on a six panel door the small panels go to the top. On a slab door the top may be marked if it isn’t then it will make no difference.
I have hung about 200 doors as a repair not construction. I will try to help you as best as I can.
With your old door in place check the fit. Most fits are OK. Fit is the reveal on the top bottom and sides of the door. With the old door still in place mark it top and back. The back is the side with the hinge pins. Mark the new door top and back this is for your reference it is very easy to get turned around doing this. Pull the pins on the old door and remove all the hardware including the hinge leafs. Do not remove hinge leafs on the door jamb. Measure the old door and cut the new one to that length be careful not to splinter the new door, score the door or clamp a piece of scrap wood on the side where the saw blade leaves the wood.
Set the old door on the side with the hinge mortise up. Line up the new door at the top of the old one. The back of one should be against the front of the other. With a combo square scribe the mortise of the old door to the new door. Now take one of the hinge leafs and trace the hinge between the mortise lines you just drew remember the pins on the hinge go to the back of the door. The hinge leaf is probably marked on the back side from paint or varnish, use this line to guide you when tracing the hinge. An interior door is 1 3/8”The hinge will set about 1 1/4” across the door. Use a router to cut out the mortise if you use a chisel be careful cut only across the grain of the door style or you will split it.
Install the leafs on the new door with only one screw on each leaf make sure to drill a pilot hole for the screw or you WILL SPLIT the door. If the door has 3 hinges , leave the middle one off until you fit the door.
Place the new door in the jamb put the top pin in first then the bottom pin, you may have to adjust the bottom leaf a little tap it up or down to make it fit. That’s why I use only one screw at first. With both pins installed, drill your pilot holes and put in the rest of screws in the top and bottom hinges.
Put a screw on the front of the door where the knob will go, you need the screw to pull the door closed so you can mark the door where it hits the jamb. Remove the strike plate off the door jamb. With a pencil mark the door where it hits the jamb. Remove the door and plane down to the line, take your time. You may have to mark the door 2 or 3 times to get the fit.
With a pencil, mark on the back side door casing, the center of the hole located on the door jamb used for the door lock Close the door and transfer the mark to the door. With a combo square use that mark to scribe a line on both sides of door about 3” long and across the style.
Now find the back set of the lock you are using. A new lock will tell you, if you use the old lock, measure the old door from the edge to the center of the hole. 2 3/8” and 2 3/4 are common sizes. Measure also the size of the hole you will need 2 1/8’’is common.
If the back set is 2 3/8. On the line you drew on the door make a mark 2 3/8 on each side of the door. If the hole is 2 1/8, use a 2 1/8 hole saw, cut half way through the door and finish the cut from the other side do not plunge straight through you will splinter the door. Mark the center of style and drill a hole to fit the door latch use a small as possible hole to fit the latch you don’t have much room to spare. Some latches need to be mortised to fit if this is the case put the latch in the hole and trace the face of it then remove the needed amount of wood and install it. Remember to drill pilot holes. Install the lockset and the third hinge if needed. Now wasn’t that easy?

Good Luck, Woodbutcher

 
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