Cannot Remove Fixed Thermo Pane


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Old 06-19-13, 04:20 PM
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Cannot Remove Fixed Thermo Pane

I have several nice, wooden casement windows in my home. Most have a swing-out (crank with a latch) part next to a fixed part. Some of the fixed windows are stand-alone fixed windows with no crank-out part. Some of the dual pane windows' seals have broken resulting in condensation appearing between glass, fogging the windows and, of course, making them less effective insulators as well as eyesores. The glass is in a substantial wooden frame which is mounted SOMEHOW in the also wooden window unit. Using a thin putty knife, I can feel four metal clips of some kind, two on each side of the window. From what I can tell looking at these clips, there are two dissimilar (I think) parts, one on the "removable" window for transport to the local window repair shop, and the mounted to other installed window unit. The windows are about 25 years old, and the plastic weatherstrip (white), which is L-shaped and fits into a groove in the windows, is rotting and should also be replaced. I don't anticipate any trouble finding or retrofitting the strip, but I have been unable to remove the fixed windows from their frames. My only guess is that there's some kind of tool that will release these clips so I can pull the window straight out from its mount. Anyone here ever heard of such a tool or some other method for disengaging or releasing these clips? My guess is I'll have to have four of... something to put in place so the window can come out. I will get some pictures posted asap to clarify.
 
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Old 06-19-13, 04:48 PM
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Some fixed windows have metal clips that are nailed to the frame of the window. The nails and remainder of the clip are hidden behind the removable wooden stops on the interior side of the sash.

Other brands have a sash that screws to the stop from the inside. Others were screwed to the frame through the sash from the outside, and then they puttied over the screw holes. Yet others have "lag" screws or nails from around the perimeter of the window frame (put in in the factory before the window was installed), and they are pretty much impossible to get out. In other cases, there is an interior stop around the perimeter of the glass.

If you say there is a vinyl glazing strip on the exterior, that is usually all that needs to be removed in order for the glass to come out. The glass is sometimes glued to the interior side of the sash with super-glue chewing gum or a similar practically impossible to remove goop. Other times there is practically nothing sealing the glass in but the exterior glazing strip.

It just depends on the brand of window, there are so many of them.

I'll look for the pictures when you post them. Any name brand anywhere?
 
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Old 06-20-13, 09:12 AM
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Wow, XSleeper, that was fast. Thanks. There's no name on the visible parts. I'm removing vinyl siding from a wall with a small one of these windows in it and intend to yank the window so i can slide it toward the exterior so as to accommodate the 5/8 wood siding and still have the brick molding helping to gasket the installation. Pictures tonight of (I hope) a not-destroyed unit and a good example of the vinyl weather strip (not glazing strip). Later and thanks again.
 
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Old 06-20-13, 03:45 PM
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Check the corner of the glass for an etched mark... or possibly examine the aluminum bar between the two panes of glass. The pictures might help.
 
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Old 06-20-13, 07:46 PM
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pretty self explanatory, I hope. the close up shows as best i can the clips. the weather strip has, of course, been painted with the red. wooden framed glass in wooden window held fast by... something.
 
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Old 06-20-13, 09:06 PM
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Marvin 1984-2 is etched on the aluminum glass divider.
 
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Old 06-20-13, 09:30 PM
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I am pretty sure that the square stops (top pic- that are against the interior side of the fixed sash) come off (try a thin stiff putty knife, sides first then top and bottom) and you might find clips that hold the sash to the jamb.

I've replaced a lot of glass, but it's hard to disassemble a window from 2000 miles away, even with your good pictures. The nails in the exterior corners of the sashes, however, remind me of a few times when I replaced glass in similar sashes... using a Fein Multimaster to cut into the rail and stile joint and cut those nails. Before I had that tool, we had to use a nail punch and drive those nails through, then pull them, in order to pull the rail and stile off of the glass.

I have seen window sashes that "clip" into the frame. In fact, I have a scar on my knee from falling through just such a window when it came unclipped unexpectedly! But that's another story. Seems like a thin flat screwdriver has to be inserted into just the right spot, then you pry from the inside until that clip pops. Whether or not yours are that way is doubtful... most often fixed casement windows are on hinges just like the operating windows... however they are usually nailed into place, like I mentioned earlier.

Since you now know the windows are made by Marvin, and the year of manufacturer (Feb '84) I would really suggest that you try the Marvin service website or phone. They will be able to give you the best advice.
 
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Old 06-21-13, 08:03 AM
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XSleeper, you're making this (posting) look way too fun. Will post back after I've had a chance to apply your very lucid thoughts to the problem. You're a mensch!
 
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Old 06-21-13, 08:02 PM
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local carrier o' marvin carrier guy is gonna call me monday. i'm at risk of being a bit embarrassed at having bothered ya. marvin's written right on the things and i'm scratchin' my head in wonder. oh well. will update monday.
 
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Old 06-25-13, 10:36 AM
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talked to the local marvin guy about how to remove the fixed side for servicing glass and weatherstripping. he suggested not removing them unless to redo the glass. confirmed what you said, xsleeper: remove all interior stops to access the clips to release the sash. he suggested in the case of badly deteriorated weatherstrips, i use a thin putty knife to remove what i can of the dryrotted plastic strips without removing sash, clean the space as best i can, and fill with sikaflex. his defense of this approach stems from the likelihood the interior wood, so attractive on these windows, runs a high risk of injury and that the sikaflex will provide a surer seal and save much time in the repair. inclined to agree, as exterior appearance not of particular concern. will post some shots of the process.
 

Last edited by stootch; 06-25-13 at 11:54 AM.
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Old 06-25-13, 04:05 PM
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Yeah, replacing the weatherstrip would be pointless on the sashes that don't open. Caulking them shut will work, provided you don't mind the way it changes the exterior appearance (fixed without the groove... caulked shut... compared to the operating windows)
 
 

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