Go Back  DoItYourself.com Community Forums > Interior Improvement Center > Doors, Skylights and Windows
Reload this Page >

Help! Andersen "Easy-Install" Storm Door Troubleshooting

Help! Andersen "Easy-Install" Storm Door Troubleshooting


  #1  
Old 07-02-13, 08:52 AM
K
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 1
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Help! Andersen "Easy-Install" Storm Door Troubleshooting

We just purchased and installed a door from the new Andersen easy-install storm door line. We followed the directions to install the door, but after securing it in the door frame and installing the handles and lock, we noticed the door wouldn't stay latched. So we removed the screws in that side of the frame, pushed it in tighter, drilled new holes and re-secured it. (This is what the instructions recommend.) Then we installed the top and bottom closers. Now the door is too tight -- it is very difficult to open/close. Does anyone have any suggestions on how we can fix this? Would removing the screws again and then fastening them back to the original holes we drilled help? We are very frustrated, so any ideas would be much appreciated!
 
  #2  
Old 07-02-13, 01:24 PM
J
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 3,860
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Only one way to find out.
 
  #3  
Old 07-02-13, 01:32 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 36,607
Upvotes: 0
Received 10 Upvotes on 9 Posts
Welcome to the forums! Now that you have had a non answer, I'll try to walk you through it. It may be that you only need the top closer. I found that out on my back door unit. By removing it, the door seemed to be less powerful to try and open. Granted both closers keep the door from racking but we have had no problems at all with ours.

As far as the latching problem, do you notice the door getting just to the point of closing and then just sitting there? It could be the hinge side is not fastened properly. Did you install the screws directly into the jamb, as well as the ones on the outside? Those are the most important ones to keep the frame true to the jamb.

Let us know what results you have. We'll keep digging if it doesn't clear things up.
 
  #4  
Old 07-02-13, 03:07 PM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 6,541
Received 15 Upvotes on 13 Posts
Well you have two sets of holes, one too wide and one too short. The sweet spot is in the middle somewhere. I would take a pencil and scribe a line along the edge of the frame against the brick mold as it sits now. Remove those screws and rehang or tack in place where the original holes were and scribe a line. The middle of the two lines is where you probably need to be.

Or..... Leave the frame loose and close the door. Take a shim(s) and position the frame so that it is equal distance off the door all the way along its length and screw it down. That way you know the door will clear the frame and also catch the latching mechanism.
 
  #5  
Old 07-02-13, 03:56 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 27,233
Received 1,958 Upvotes on 1,755 Posts
This is just a guess, but I'm guessing that the exterior door is not plumb, and that the storm door might be getting racked as you push it closed. Bring the storm door to a point where it's almost closed and observe the gap where the door meets the weatherstrip... it should be straight, not touching on the top, and gapped open 1/2" on the bottom.

Only way to fix that (aside from removing the entire door and plumbing it, which is usually out of the question) is to shim the storm door so that it's side jambs aren't racked, by shimming opposite corners of the door until it lines up.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: