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installing replacement windows in new framing

installing replacement windows in new framing

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  #1  
Old 07-15-13, 11:25 AM
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installing replacement windows in new framing

I want to use four windows i have to re do my back room. These are the type that would slide into the old window frames. We are starting over on this room so there are no existing window frames in place.
How should i install these in order for the vinyl siding to come out correct? Flush with framing? An inch sticking out side?

I guess it should stick out far enough to cover sheathing and the j channel for the siding.
 
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  #2  
Old 07-15-13, 11:52 AM
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You are going to have to build a frame with stops and a sill. Replacement windows are not designed to be installed like new construction windows. They won't meet up flush with the interior either. Most are only the thickness of a stud or a little less. I've seen it done a few times for sunrooms, sheds and such...but water and air leakage isn't as much of an issue in those cases.

Why not start with NC windows?
 
  #3  
Old 07-15-13, 01:17 PM
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Just not worth all the extra work, and in most cases it's going to leak. You not going to save a penny in the long run.
 
  #4  
Old 07-15-13, 04:24 PM
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I would tend to agree with joecaption1. It would be a lot of work. About the only way to do it and have it NOT leak is to shim and screw the windows in so that they are flush with the exterior sheathing. (and by that, I mean the surface that your new WRB... installed behind the vinyl siding... will be going on) Then get yourself some PVC sill nose and some PVC brickmould. Put the sill nose across the bottom (don't block any weep holes!) and then trim the other 3 sides with the brickmould. Then get yourself a tube of white Trimbonder epoxy and a mixing nozzle, and epoxy the perimeter of the PVC trim where it meets the vinyl window.

That will give you the longest lasting seal between the window and the trim. Then you would just have to seal the perimeter of the trim to the WRB. Best way to do that is to do a double layer of flashing tape...

So let me regress back to the point before the window trim is on. Put one layer of flashing tape facing forward and tacked to the sheathing (sticky side out) around the perimeter of the window, then another layer to tape the WRB to the sticky side of the first layer. You would do this before you install the sill nose and the brickmould. The sticky layer should butt right up against the edge of the window so that when you put on the sill nose and the brickmould, it gets "stuck" to the flashing tape. You would then apply the 2nd layer in the normal fashion around the trim.
 
  #5  
Old 07-15-13, 07:36 PM
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But then your still counting on caulking to keep the water out, which will surly fail at some point.
Use new construction windows with built in J molding then the window tape and it's not going to leak.
I've just had to go behind to may DIY's that tried getting by on deals they got on windows and ended up replacing whole walls and dealing with all the mold.
 
  #6  
Old 07-15-13, 09:10 PM
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The epoxy is not caulking, joe. It's greater in strength to any welded vinyl joint, so it actually bonds the window to the vinyl trim, making it one component. If you've never used Trimbonder, I understand your skepticism.

I also respect what you're saying and that you are trying to save him the headaches by telling him to get windows with nailing fins and integral j-channels. I agree that would be best. But since he already has the 4 windows and said he wants to use them....................

Whatever he decides, he can't say we didn't warn him.
 
  #7  
Old 08-08-13, 06:10 AM
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Dang. You guys are right on. I picked the windows up years ago on clearance. I figured this was the time to use them. Guess not.
I would rather use the new windows. We used the ones you mentioned with the built in j channel on the other parts of the house. So I guess thank you for the decision maker. Now I can buy the new windows without feeling bad about it.
 
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