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New window installation screw up, need advice

New window installation screw up, need advice

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  #1  
Old 10-05-13, 07:21 PM
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New window installation screw up, need advice

Hey, first time poster. So here is the deal, I have a wall in my house with no windows so I thought hey how hard could it be to cut a hole and put in a new window? Piece of cake, right? Bought the window, cut the hole, installed the window per the manufacturers recommendations, lost the directions, then winged finishing off the exterior and closing it off. I installed the Left-Operable Vinyl Double Pane New Construction Sliding Window from Lowes about 6 weeks ago and everything has been great. No problems, looks good, lets in much needed light into the kitchen, and the wife loves it. However, this evening an infrequent to our area Easterly storm moved in and blew rain right at the window... leaks likes a sieve. Seems that the rain is coming from above and leaking straight down. So here is what I did: Nailed a 2x4 to the header above the window, sprayed in the foam insulation stuff, put a bead of exterior silicone caulk around the window, replaced the cedar shingles, and then primed and painted the window. My question is what should have I done differently and how can I fix the leaking now? Can I just caulk the crap out of the top and then spray it with a hose to see if it fixed the problem, or should I remove a row of shingles and add some kind of aluminum window flashing? BTW I live up in the UP of Michigan and winter is coming soon. Thanks!
 
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  #2  
Old 10-05-13, 07:47 PM
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Going to need some pictures inside and out and a lot more details as to exactly how you installed it.
A properly installed window should have only needed caulking behind the nailing fin on the outside, no other "caulking" needed. However there should have been house wrap, window tape, and Z moulding over the top of the window before the siding went on.
 
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Old 10-05-13, 08:17 PM
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What, you can't just tell me exactly what to do?!?! Alright then, well I can get pictures tomorrow. Regarding your questions, no to all the above. It did not have a nailing fin, it was like this window: http://www.lowes.com/pd_358327-12697-JWVYL+SLD+OBSC+3010_1z0zvkh+2z8vn__?productId=3422182&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1%26page%3D1&facetInfo=$50%20-%20$100

I just set it in, shimmed it, made sure it was plum, and screwed it in, then caulked around the edges to create a seal.

The house wrap was the old wrap, house was built in 1903. No window tape, and what is Z molding...?
 
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Old 10-06-13, 03:35 AM
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Welcome to the forums! Post pictures like this. You may have to try twice. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html

Caulk, silicone, foam...none are your friends. Proper flashing of the window from above may could have prevented the water leakage. At best, the window will need to be removed and flashing installed under the siding and tar paper (if any) and allow it to protrude slightly past the outside and both sides of the window. Basically it will resemble a flat "gutter" for the water to run off.

When we get the pictures of the outside and inside (not closeups, please) we may be able to better offer ways to reset the window so you don't have leaks of water nor air.
 
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Old 10-06-13, 05:59 AM
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Sounds like a replacement window set in a hole.

1903 house, did we install a header above the window? Did any adjustments get made to the let in bracing?
 
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Old 10-06-13, 08:19 AM
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Here is a picture from the inside:

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And here is one of the outside.
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Sorry, no pics during construction.

Yes, I put in a header to support the joists above the window. There was no let in brace where we cut in, it is a small window.
 
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Old 10-06-13, 08:23 AM
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Chandler, thanks for your reply. Question: why will I need to remove the entire window to install flashing? Can't I just remove the row of shingles above the window and install flashing? Have it wrap down around the edges and replace the shingles? Hopefully, the pictures will help...
 
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Old 10-06-13, 08:39 AM
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How the hell do I create a new thread!!!! ???????
Arrrgghhhhhh! Ive been looking for ages.....................
 
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Old 10-06-13, 08:45 AM
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Click on the appropriate subforum for your topic, then near the top left of your screen you'll see POST NEW THREAD. Click it. Done.

Mods will likely be deleting your post in this thread pretty soon.
 
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Old 10-06-13, 08:49 AM
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sorry for hijacking the question. thanks for the reply wildbill7145 but there is no POST NEW THREAD!!! thanks anyway
 
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Old 10-06-13, 09:02 AM
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Electrician1... go to the correct forum that you want to post in... doors, painting, electrical, etc. Then look at the upper left side of the screen for the new thread button. Click on the link below for an example of where to find it. You won't find the "post new thread" button when you are reading someone's post. Go up one level. Top of this thread shows the "level" you are at.

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Old 10-06-13, 09:04 AM
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Electrician1: No worries about your question. I had the same problem yesterday when I made my first new post. Starting a new post was not that intuitive. However, I think it is for a reason. I am guessing the moderators do not want you posting in any old spot. So they require you to get down to the sub-forums (reaching a forum topic that matches your new thread) and then the "Post New Thread" button comes up in the top left of the screen. Did not make sense at first, but makes sense now. For example, I had to go to "Interior Improvement Center" then "Doors and Windows" then I could create a "New Thread". Hope this helps.
 
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Old 10-06-13, 09:22 AM
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jhelp,

Your first mistake was probably putting a replacement window in an opening where a "new construction" window should have been used. New construction windows have nailing fins, which you use to mount the window in the opening, and you also use them to seal the window to the wall, using sealant (behind) and the flashing tape (over the top).

Secondly, it looks like you have no flashing that goes behind your shake siding, and over the top of your top trim board. Caulk is not a reliable means of flashing something.

And then finally, when you have shake siding like that, you usually need to flash quite a ways above the window opening in order to ensure it is leak proof. Each layer of siding "weeps" onto the next, so it is hard telling how far up you would need to flash the window... it kind of depends on how the siding was installed and we can't see that.

Usually, each row of shingles will have a layer of #30 felt paper over them. The thing that prevents each course of shingles from leaking onto the next is the felt paper. The shingles are kind of just for looks. So what you might do is remove the shingles over your top 2x4, and install a metal z-flashing over your 2x4. Go to Google images and search for z-flashing if you need a picture. Then cover the z-flashing with felt paper that tucks behind the rest of your felt paper.

At that point, you could shoot a hose at the window and water can't get behind the top 2x4. You would then replace your shingles, lapping felt paper over the top half of each course, working from the bottom up. All the felt paper you apply needs to be tucked behind the existing shingles and their felt paper in order to be waterproof. The top row of shingles will have to get tucked under the existing felt paper, which is hopefully still intact behind the existing siding.
 
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Old 10-06-13, 09:34 AM
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Thanks XSleeper, I should have done better research before getting started. I explained my project to the person at Lowes and to another "handyman" I know, and they told me the window I found was fine. Also, there was nothing in the directions that said it was meant for existing windows only and not for new ones. I tried searching "installation of new windows" on youtube, google, etc. and nothing came up that was very helpful - (new project for someone out there?). It makes sense that there should be some sort of "fin" that goes around new windows that stops moisture from coming in, but hindsight is 20x20. Unless there is someone out there with another strong opinion I plan to follow what you said Xsleeper. Remove the shingles above the top 2X4, install #30 felt paper and z-flashing. 2 questions though: 1) how far up should I go with the new felt paper and z-flashing? How many rows of shingles should be removed? and 2) what about the sides? Should I remove those shingles and try to run some flashing as well? Thanks again.
 
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Old 10-06-13, 09:36 AM
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From the inside picture, a 2"x 6" piece of lumber laying flat is not considered an appropriate header for over the window. Hopefully you have some additional beef above that member and on top of the 1x6 you have laying on top of the 2x6. Based on the studs flanking the window, I'm skeptical.
 
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Old 10-06-13, 11:57 AM
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To all: How to start a thread. Follow the red arrow:

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Old 10-09-13, 03:40 PM
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jhelp, are you still there. Any other questions? What a mess of your thread, maybe a mod can clean it up.....

Gary
 
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